The Great Pattern Review
Tailor's Guide
Ladies' Two Jacket Styles 1760-1785
Leanne Keefer-Bechdel - Recommended
This was my first attempt at any tailored, fitted garment. I had lost the instructions and was very impressed that the Head Elf sent me new instructions within two days. The paper is a nice heavy stock and can be used over and over. The pattern has multiple sizes from small to extra large. I recommend you first make a muslin or liner mock-up to check for sizing as it is a fitted jacket. You may need to wear your stays when fitting the jackets; some adjustments may be needed.
There is a bit of confusion ov the instructions for the gussets in Jacket A. I ended up cutting an additional gusset and added it between the sides, directly under the arms, as well as between the sides and back. The latter creates a fuller skirt.
Jacket B was very easily done. It has clear instructions and is Highly Recommended for a beginner. I decided to combine the two and made Jacket B with the winged cuffs from Jacket A (the earlier style). This garment was a period jacket made as a gift for my mother. The pattern also includes citations for accurate references which were very helpful. Over all, I was very pleased with the outcome.
French Fly Breeches 1690 - 1750
David Bell - Not Recommended, unless you have lots of experience with breeches.
The instructuions are fairly straight forward, but there are a couple of errors/omissions on the pattern that will cause trouble at the top of the pocket and at the bottom of the button flap. Also, the pleated front looks very 'poofy' unless you also wear the military codpiece under it. I'm trying now to modify it in order to eliminate the pleats, but it doesn't look hopeful so far.
1790's Frock Coate
Eris Weaver - Recommended
This was a very ambitious project for me. I've done a lot of sewing but, no tailoring. The heavy paper pattern pieces were clearly marked and easy to handle. The instructions were clear and fairly easy to follow by going slowly and doing lots of basting. With the exception of a slightly sloppy welt, the coat came out looking great.