The Great Pattern Review
Sense & Sensibility
Regency Gown Pattern
Elizabeth Doornink - Highly Recommended
This has to one of the best patterns I have ever made. It was easy to alter and simple to make up. There are endless variations possible with a bit of creativity. It was very quick to make. It can look perfect as either a ball gown or a simple work dress. Mrs. Chancey's directions are clear and simple and very easy to understand. I highly recommend it to all my friends and wish that all patterns were this easy. Pictured at left.
Rebecca Newton - Highly Recommended
Jennie Chancey's easy-to-sew, easy-to-wear regency gown is manages to cover the boundaries between costume and clothing. I made my first gown (size 18) from her pattern nearly a year ago, raising the neckline by a couple of inches (it was easy to raise). I have since made several more for myself and my clients. So comfortable, I wear my gowns on an everyday basis, over the bodiced petticoat from LaMode Bagatelle. Because Mrs. Chancey drapes and drafts her patterns all by hand, a few oops! (as she is wont to call them) slipped by her into the final version of the pattern. One, the skirt front is several inches longer than the back. You can either lengthen the back slightly, or take up tucks in the front at the hem. I've done both. Mrs. Chancey provides an "Oops" page with remedies to common problems you might face when using her patterns. As a supplement to the excellent printed instructions included with her patterns, she has also included instructions on her website, featuring clear photographs for the Regency Gown pattern, the Titanic Tea Gown and the Edwardian Walking Jacket. These are invaluable if you happen to get stuck. Pictured at right.
Roz Johnson - Highly Recommended
This pattern is easy to use and alter as needed. If you have plump upper arms, measure the width of the long sleeves carefully to be sure they have a comfortable amount of ease. The website has terrific directions, essentially repeating the ones found in the pattern envelope, but with extra tips and photographs rather than line drawings. She also has new directions for attaching the under-sleeves and an explanation for that uneven skirt length mentioned in the above review (it was the printers' error in the pattern reproduction process).
Janet Canning - Highly Recommended
Great for beginners and those returning to sewing after an absence. Yes, as noted on website, the front skirt panel was drafted longer than the back panel. I adjusted this by putting the pattern on my cutting board and looking at the curve on the side seam (an excellent way of allowing for hips and the look of the period for those not wearing a corset). I was able to correct and cut out. It is a good pattern for returning to sewing. If you are a bit fuller in the upper body but, have a modern figure (not slight of build or women's sizing), the sleeve and shoulder area are a bit tight on the arm hole. I would try a draft of the bodice and check for your armhole as well as the rest of the fit. If you have a womanly figure, contact Sense & Sensibility about their pattern suppliments. Jennie also has online instructions and classes on her website. If you want to see movement and how this dress should look, check out the Gweneth Paltrow version of Emma and the website www.sensibility.com.
Mary Alice Ladd - Highly Recommended
I recommend this pattern for beginner sewers. This is a multi-size pattern, printed on heavy paper, which will stand up to repeated use. There are links for very detailed step-by-step photos and instructions on the Sense & Sensibility website. Also check the "Oops" page for a few corrections to the pattern. Once I made the corrections, I had no problems with the pattern. I did not need to make test muslin for my gown. I cut out my preshrunk cream feather embroidered fabric on a Tuesday night and by Friday night I was wearing the finished gown to a Regency Ball. For my next gown, I plan to move the shoulder seam back and scoop in the back armhole. This should make the gown more period correct. Mary's gown is shown in the photos to the right.
Sumalee Eaton - Highly Recommended
This was a very simple, straitfoward pattern. I hardly glanced at the instructions. The end result is very pleasing. Jennie Chancey's website is also a great companion. She had online instructions with photos as well as tips for making a bodiced petticoat (which was also very easy), a drop front dress, a button front dress, a train, etc...If you are looking for a simple Regency Gown pattern, that is very comfotable, then this is definitely for you. The only caveats I have are that I am slope shouldered and the the armhole is slightly too tight. But Miss Chancey has instructions on her website for fixing these small things. I also love that it is printed on heavy duty paper, instead of tissue paper, even though I trace all of my patterns on Pellon anyway. Definitely consider buying this pattern.
Aylwen Garde - Highly Recommended
I love this pattern and find it easy to use and easy to trace off. It is excellent for begining sewers. I prefer to use cottons and light drapable fabrics. Silk dupioni is so stiff that it gives this dress a big bottom. The bodice portion of this pattern is suited to someone with broad shoulders. The dress will fall off narrow shoulders. I tend to use the La Mode Bagetelle pattern for the bodice. It's a better fit for me. Her dresses are pictured at right.
Mary Ingles - Not Recommended
My experience with this pattern was not positive. It was simple to get together at first. It's not easy to get the lining gathered inside the bodice, to whipstitch it to the waist line, to encase the seams of the bodice and skirt between the bodice and lining. The lining piece should have been designed differently. I gave up in trying to gather and whipstitch at the same time. I finally gave up, tore it apart, and reassembled it in a different way. My sister and I both tried making dresses. The fit didn't work for either of us. The arms were too tight and the skirt wasn't even. One part ended up being too short and ruined the look of my dress. My sister is lucky that she is short and needs to hem up patterns, but my dress is ruined. The designer should have taken into consideration the different proportions of larger body sizes to smaller body sizes before putting this pattern out.
April Bong - Recommended with caution.
After making four different dresses, I have given up on this pattern. I could never make the bodice fit properly. There seems to be way too much material to gather in the back and make it all fit. The sleeves were small and so were the arm holes. If you are exactly the right body shap for this pattern, it may work for you. If not, you will have to make a lot of alterations and still may not be able to make it fit well.
Emma Conway - Not Recommended
I really wish I could recommend this one, I really do, but I can't. The website is lovely, the patterns come on cardstock, Ms. Clancey seems nice... but I and my friends had horrific experiences with this pattern. Two winters ago I was in charge of the costuming for a production of Pride and Prejudice as well as playing Lizzy Bennet and, in my foolishness, I recommended this pattern to everyone before I tried it myself. The only thing this pattern has going for it is the detailed online instructions. Otherwise, I personally run away screaming from this one. I got a lot of replies from people commenting on how sparse the instructions were (I wound up ignoring them and going on my own know-how) and how generally difficult this thing was... and one of the ladies makes wedding dresses for a living- - is that telling you something? Some of the details are a bit strange- the placket, the lining... I myself wound up getting incredibly stressed just trying to finish the one costume for me. Everyone who used the pattern deemed it unflattering with a strange fit. We had a competition to see who had the biggest "back/butt poof" caused by the gathering at the back (and we did use the smallest skirt). The cut of the neckline is a bit strange in front, and it's fairly low in back. I wound up altering the neckline of my dress to suit my taste better. And the audience got to watch us casually pull up the slipping shoulders countless times. One thing I thought was very strange is that I am 5'4", and the dress was just (I mean just) long enough for me. I'm not sure if that is my fault or not. I had the same problem with the long sleeves (in the mid-Regency era, sleeves often went down to the knuckles, this one barley managed my wrists). Would I use it again? Nope. Oh, and the bodiced petticoat idea? *sigh* My mum and I started, but after a day or two it had us lashing out irrationally. I really can't tell you if it's worth the hassle or not, I ended up tearing out the boning and wearing it as "slip." Save up your money and buy period stays instead (periodcorsets.com is great), or get a push-up bra. Pictured at right.
Regency Spencer/Pelisse
Sarah Outterson - Recommended
I like this one because it is very versatile. There are so many different options for the neckline, fastenings, length, trim, etc. that this pattern could well make up a whole wardrobe of Regency jackets. Also, the instructions were very sensible and the pieces fitted together perfectly. I love the way the back looks. The diamond shape is beautiful and, of course, authentic. My only hint is to make sure that the gathering on the sleeve rests at the shoulder-line; otherwise, the sleeves may look baggy. This pattern was very easy and a perfect starting point for my second sewing project. I am very pleased with the result.
Elizabeth Doornink - Highly Recommended
As with all of Mrs. Chancey's patterns, this is a pattern that I will recommend and use over and over again. It has clear directions. It was easy to grasp even some of the harder points of this garment's construction. I highly recommend this pattern to sewers of most levels. Beginners may find it a little difficult and need to seek help.
Girls' Regency Dress
Sarah Stewart - Highly Recommended
I made four of these dresses and was very pleased with the assembly and instructions. I measured according to the pattern makers' directions and adjusted accordingly. My oldest (8 years old) is very slender, so I used a size 6 Bodice and the size 6 skirt but, cut the skirt to the size 8 length. I added ribbon on the armbands and bodice. I also lined it fully and used a cream muslin for inside the bodice and also for the underskirt which I hemmed to fall just below the overskirt and then trimmed it wi-th cream ribbon. The dresses turned to be fantastic. They are a very nice weight do to the lining.
Romantic Era Dress
Aylwen Garde - Highly Recommended
I love this pattern and use it for all my day dresses around the home and for going out. I don't like the high necklines. I prefer to use the jumper necklines, particularly for dance dresses. Although many people identify this as an 1830s pattern, I feel it is more a late 1820's style. It is definitely for intermediate sewers.
Romantic Blouse
Sarah Stewart - Highly Recommended
The pattern is fairly straightforward and simple. It turns out crisp and beautiful. I measured out at a medium but, went down a size to small and still got a generous fit. I shortened the sleeves 2 inches because I prefer a smaller cap sleeve. It is fitted, yet modest and is highly versatile. I especially enjoy the blouse length, as blouses today always run short. I didn't have anyone on hand to take a picture of me in the blouse. It is fitted and very smart. I will be making more of these.
Edwardian Walking Jacket
Carmen Stone - Highly Recommended
This is by far one of the best patterns I have worked with. I put this cream linen walking suit (Edwardian Walking Jacket and 1909 Beatrix Skirt) together in a couple of afternoons. the pattern is clear and precise. The jacket is more for intermediate level sewing skills or a patient beginner. Pictured in the photos to the right
Mary Ingles - Recommended
This pattern is not for the beginner because of the fitting required. An Intermediate level sewer could handle the construction. The pattern says experience will be needed for the tailored fit. The pattern is challenge, but it produces a nice result.
Edwardian Apron
Mary Ingles - Recommended
This pattern goes together easily with no problems.
1909 Beatrix Skirt
Carmen Stone - Highly Recommended
I would rate the skirt appropriate for a beginner; it is all straight seams.
Janet Canning - Recommended
This is a basic 5-6 gore skirt that knocks together pretty easily. The patterns are hand drafted and one piece is nested inside another, so you will need to trace that separate. Jennie Chancy gives good directions and you will need to add 2 inches or more if you like a more period hem with say a street length hem. The patterns tend to run to average height of 5'5", so if you are not petite, plan to add extra length. Warning: I was very careful about seams and found that I had the choppy uneven bottom effect happening. I solved this by creating a false hem of muslin and since I made it of a free fabric(yes, someone gave it to me) It's basically a test run. The fit is good and it was a good test run before I do it up in linen. I like to do this because if you run out of time, you can still get to the event and see what you like or dislike about a pattern and then remake it to suit you better.
Mary Ingles - Not Recommended
While it was easy to put together, I don't like the pieces nestling inside each other. I had to cut one pattern piece and the fabric, then cut that pattern piece to get to the next one. This pattern is only good for a one-time use unless you buy two. When we buy patterns, we don't expect to have to butcher it to use it, and to only get to use it once without buying a second. Printing may not be cheap, but it's also not cheap to have to buy a second pattern to get one piece so the pattern can be used again.
Jill Silbert - Higly Recommended
This is a lovely pattern - Higly Recommended for those larger women on your list! Pattern works up easily for adaptation. For those who are lamenting about pieces being nestled, have you heard of tracing paper, or aisle runner (from your local church) for tracing pattern pieces? I NEVER, EVER cut original patterns! I always trace!! Since the house in which this pattern is used for has stairs, we always need to do away with the slight train for safety sake. I think this takes away from the effect, but - - - - !! (and this one need no wine to finish! heehee!)
1909 Beatrix Jacket
Mary Ingles - Recommended
It went together easily. I wish there was an option to not have it poof out in back. But with the right fabrics this can be made either historically or made to look more modern for day wear.
1910s Tea Gown
Carmen Stone - Highly Recommended
I made this ball gown in 2 days using the tea gown pattern. The pieces fit like a dream. The instructions are clear and precise. Carmen is shown wearing her Tea Gown in the photo on the right.
Mary Ingles - Recommended
Working with chiffon in the amount required for this dress is a pain, but other than that, it goes together easily. The gathering at the bottom back of the skirt doesn't look right and is much nicer left out. I added a second full layer to my dress by just making two of the bottom layer and basting them together and this looks good.
1914 Afternoon Dress
Celeste Kostyniuk - Highly Recommended
This dress went together very nicely. It lends itself very well to any lace insertion or entredeux one might want to adorn it with. I liked how there were several options for sleeves. I made it with an embroidered underdress in batiste and the overdress in voile. Pictured on the right.
Carmen Stone - Highly Recommended
I adore this pattern. I made this dress in two afternoons (while supervising my son). I followed the instructions carefully. All the seams are French seams. I gave special attention to the neck. Even a beginner could make this dress.
Sue Huston - Not Recommended
The pattern is printed on nice heavy paper and comes with a big instruction booklet. This is such a beautiful dress design but, I had a terrible time with the pattern. I attempted the Nursing version. I thought the instructions 'jumped around' and were hard to follow. I was going to wear it without a corset so I cut one size larger. The waist was too tight and the shoulders are very broad. It's quite Pidgeon-breasted so it may not be flattering to all figure types. Despite all the problems I am going to try it again.
Girl's 1914 Dress Pattern
Elisabeth Doornink - Highly Recommended
I first used this gown to make two Amish dresses for a commission. They went together very quickly - I was finished one a day, with some time to spare, and the pattern was very easy to use. Instead of a waist band, I pleated the bodice, stitched the pleats down, and then sewed the skirt onto that - it both saved time and made for a more accurate, Amish-like construction. As well, I used the bodice pattern as a base for the a-line aprons. I also used the pattern to create a copy of a dress worn by Lucy in the Chronicles of Narnia. I lengthened the puffed sleeves an inch, and took out the bodice front gathering, adding an insert edged with piping. I also made the skirt narrower and longer, as my sister has long legs, is rather thin, and Lucy's skirt was narrower, after all.
I've used this pattern to make a smaller gown, size 1. Either by an error in the pattern or my tracing of it, the long sleeve was too small to fit in the armsyce, so I had to cut puffed sleeves, and then add longer sleeves on the bottom of that.
Overall, this has been a wonderful pattern to use, and I'd highly recommend it. The heirloom techniques are nicely demonstrated, and I've found it a versatile pattern.
1940s "Swing" Dress
Mary Ingles - Not Recommended
As much as I wanted to be able to recommend this pattern, it just doesn't look like the illustration on the front of the pattern package. Following directions exactly, it looks very modern and not at all vintage. The pattern went together fairly easily, but just is not really the right look for a 1940s Swing Dress.