The Great Pattern Review
Rocking Horse Farm
#140 - Sideless Gowns
Katherine Caron-Greig
I'm not sure whether to recommend this pattern or not. I used it to recreate Eowyn's Refugee Dress from The Two Towers. I am happy with the result, but the pattern was more work than should be necessary for such a simple dress. The pattern pieces went together nicely, but they were huge. I ended up taking 6" out of the surcoat neckline, 5" out of the underdress arms-eyes, 6" out of the upper sleeve and 3" out of the underdress neckline. That said, the pattern was easy to work with and the sizing wasn't difficult. Pictured at left.
Kara Fark - Not Recommended
I didn't really like this pattern but, someone who really wants to spend $15 on a pattern that has basically a front piece, gathered sleeves, and a side gore, might. I, too, used this pattern for Eowyn's Refugee dress. The first problem I encountered was the pattern pieces are in bits. You have to tape three panels (each 4'x4') together just to get the under-dress. Construction of the under-dress is too simple: two side seams, one back seam, darts and the sleeves. The over-dress is a copy of the under-dress front and a side gore. The under-dress is really heavy if you make it in a synthetic fabric. The lining in the over-dress blew my mind. I had to cut the shoulder seams to remedy the problem and re-sew them. Neither of the pieces allow for different heights. You will have nearly 3 yards of scraps left over unless you make it up in 60" fabric. There is no cutting layout. There are no illustrations for the over-dress. It doesn't tell you how to hand sew the eyelets. It is a simple pattern but, you'd be better off using a modern jumper pattern and draping it to get the fit. Pictured at right.
Sally Norton - Recommended for beginners.
I made Sideless Gown #1. It went together easily. I checked the pattern pieces and observed a mistake. The bodice pieces for Sideless Gowns #2 and #3 do not have the correct higher neckline (as shown in the illustrations on the instruction sheet. If you are making either of those variations, you'll want to cut a higher neckline.
#141 - Houppelandes
Lila Bednar - Not Recommended
It sucks. There is not nearly enough fabric in the body of the garment and the sleeves are horribly wrong; actually, if you cut the sleeve pieces exactly to pattern, they don't fit together. The collar also doesn't roll right. All in all, one of the worst patterns I've worked with.
#142 - Men's Tunics
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
Easy to make. More good historical notes. Makes into an extremely elegant costume. Flattering to men of all sizes and shapes. Also good for an all-day event; it's very comfortable. The tunic made by Sally is shown in the photo on the left.
Lorraine Carson - Highly Recommended
I love this pattern. It's easy. I made it for two different men and they both look wonderful. Dave Easter and Mike Wolfe are wearing their Tunics in the photo to the right.
#143 - Kirtle
Lorraine Carson - Highly Recommended
You can't go wrong. It's easy and makes up into a lovely gown. I added lacing on each side instead of a back closure and made an undergown (also using the Kirtle pattern). Pictured at left.
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
Simple pattern. Very good historical notes with illustrations. Makes into a lovely gown. Flattering to all body types. Very slimming. The simple lines of this gown would be good for science fiction/fantasy as well as the Medieval era. Pictured at right.
Cilean Stirling
I really enjoyed this pattern, but I am a DD so I had to make room for them. I do suggest you have a friend and make a mock up for each other. That way you can form fit your body. The directions were just okay, I would like a section on making it completely authentic.
#151 - Colonial Riding Habit
Maggie Herlensky
The directions were sketchy, but the costume came out nicely, anyway. I found later that I had put the pocket flaps on wrong. Oh well. I like it better the way I made it. There are no instructions for any of the variations pictured on the pattern.
#184 - Sacque Back Gown & Jacket
Lorraine Carson - Not Recommended
Not historically accurate; the bodice contains bust and waist darts. The bodice also had an odd, incorrect over-bodice. The side hoops are too large; the dress will not fit over them.
#186 - Chemise Dress
Sally Norton - Not Recommended
Although the finished gown is pretty, the construction isn't accurate. The bodice should be smooth. The pattern pieces are much too large and you end up with a huge amount of fabric that can't possibly create a smooth line with drawstrings. The neckline has way too much fabric to gather. I gathered and gathered and gathered some more and it's still too large.
#188 - Gown with Overdress
Janet Canning - Not Recommended
The pattern runs large. The sleeves on the finished dress look nothing like the cover illustration. The pattern piece for the sleeve is much too large for the Regency era. Cut it down and it will give a better result. The finished gown is quite charming (after I made all the changers). I used the pattern for the over-gown for a separate costume. I used it to create a Victorian version of an Italian Renaissance gown (think of the paintings by Burne Jones). Janet's Victorian Italian Renaissance gown is shown in the photo on the left.
Christine James - Not Recommended
I thought the instructions were confusing. If you have basic sewing knowledge, it's not too hard to figure out. The pattern pieces do go together well. A beginner with patience could use this pattern, but there are better and easier Regency dress patterns, such as the Period Impressions 1809 Day Wear #460. Pictured at right.
#193 - 1820's Romantic Gown (Out of Print)
Rebecca Prince - Not Recommended
The pattern was too large. The skirt has 4 panels. The instructions tell you to put the side panels in upside down. Don't do it. Just turn the pieces around and they fit properly. Very pretty dress. Rebecca is wearing the dress in the photo to the right.
Trystan L. Bass - Recommended
Pretty little dress. Super easy pattern with only a few pieces. Instructions are terse but, it's not too difficult to figure out. Lots of potential for variation.
#199 - Men's 1812 Waistcoat
Sally Norton - Not Recommended
The pattern piece for the standup collar is incorrect. Measure the length you want and cut two rectangles on the bias for the collar. The pattern runs large. If you decide to use this pattern, make it in muslin first.
#203 - 18th Century Button Fly Breeches
Roonie Ulrig - Recommended with caution.
This pattern is only for the experienced sewer who does not mind that notches, dots and clip marks may not match up. Thank goodness I made the first pair out of muslin. The instructions are clear and well-drawn but, only up to a point. The picture of the pattern on the cover is not an illustration of the pattern you are making. The picture shows breeches at the waist but, this style will hang on the hips as is proper for the 18th century.
#265 - Civil War Era Ball Gown
Lisa Prindle
This pattern is satisfactory if you are not too concerned with authenticity. The pattern has 'flanges'; so commonly seen in fashion plates of the 1860s but, it is guilty of having bust darts under the arm. This is considerably inaccurate for a true representation of the Civil War era. The flanges, however, hide this dart flaw; so, I didn't feel too bad about making it up as is. I added a pleated insertion at the center front neckline.
#285 - Polonaise, Levite & Round Gowns
Wendy Moyer
I made this for a client. The piece turned out fine but it is highly inaccurate in the placement of seams and so forth.
#909 - Ladies Coat Suit
Loren Dearborn - Not Recommended
The instructions are confusing. You'll end up relying on your own sewing experience to assemble this suit. If this is your first fitted jacket, it would be helpful to examine a finished garment from the era. The skirt instructions are useless. Use common sense and your own experience to sew the skirt together. Recommended for advanced intermediates. The finished suit is very handsome. Loren is wearing her suit in the photo to the right.
Jill Silbert - Recommended
This is a wonderful pattern. It works like a charm. Since most seams are straight, it goes together with hardly any problems. The only alteration to make is to use normal (5/8-inch) seams instead of 3/8-inch seams. Be aware that the 1-inch seams are given in order to make adjustments to fitting. If you know the exact measurements you need, then one can sew the proper seam the first time. Otherwise, there is room for adjustment. The skirt is wonderful. I loved putting this together. Again, the only change I would make is to do buttons or use larger hooks/eyes on the skirt. I have made this pattern at least three times and would highly recommend this to anyone who wants a fashionable 1900's style outfit.
#987 - Ladies' Eight-Gore Skirt 1897
Kathryn Smiley - Not Recommended
A strong recommendation not to buy this pattern. There are two sections, top and bottom, for each gore. Unfortunately, the top (or bottom) section of two of the gores are drafted upside down. While the sections of the individual gores tape together correctly, the cut out pieces will not sew together properly. This does not become apparent until you are actually trying to put them together. In addition, the top section of one of the other pattern pieces is a good 1/2" wider than its corresponding bottom section.