The Great Pattern Review
Reconstructing History
#101 - Women's 1630s Bodice and Petticote
Mary Bucher
As I was making the Bodice in a short amount of time (3-4 evenings) for a person sight unseen, I chose to make the simplest version. I made View A of the bodice, which has a high, closed neckline, the narrow sleeves, and the gored skirting. According to the measurements I was given, the pattern specs said to make a size 22, but I cut all the pieces in size 24 (just in case). The construction of the bodice was fairly straight forward. I did not have too many sticking points. The instructions have only a few illustrations and, as I am a visual learner, I really wished for more -- especially when I got to the few problem spots, such as the sleeves and gores. All in all, I was able to assemble the bodice from beginning to end in a few evenings. My only problem with this pattern was the sizing. Admittedly, in an ideal situation I would have made a muslin, had the person try it on, etc, but I was too short on time for that. However, the bodice came out way too small. I'm smaller than the person I made it for and there was still a 3-4" gap in the front of the bodice when I tried it on. There is a companion pattern discussion list which I would recommend using (I was just too short of time in this case).
The Petticote is very straight forward and easy to make. It is just squares of fabric, cartridge pleated to a waist band, with either a tied or hooked closure (I made the latter). The pattern includes instructions on cartridge pleating.
#102 - Women's 1600-1660s Caps
Mary Bucher
This pattern includes several different caps: diadem, hollar (straight & curved), dutch (wide & narrow) and a coif with optional forehead cloth. I quickly made the dutch cap (to go with the quickly made 1630s bodice & petticote). It is very straight forward with easy instructions, but again it was very small. I have a big head, but it was also too small for my teenage daughter.
#201 - English Jacket and Petticote
Cilean Stirling
I was not happy how this jacket came out. I am a size 20, but according to the pattern I was not even a 26! So I added inches all over and still I was not satisfied. For me it would have been better to create this from scratch on my own than using this pattern. However? I have spoken to several others who are sizes 12, 10 and 8 respectively and they said they had no issues in using the patterns.
#204 - Elizabethan Closed Loose Gown, Loose Kirtle and Sleeves
Karen Bradley - Recommended
The gown and kirtle pattern are both excellent patterns for the intermediate seamstress. I would recommend this to be the first major project for someone who has made basic tunics, pants and other simple garb. The directions provided are clear and often accompanied by line drawings. I've found that the sizes on the pattern are for the most part accurate to actual size. I really appreciated the inclusion of period pictures and references that were used to come up with the overall design for both the kirtle and gown. These will let the individual decide for themselves how the garment would have looked in period and if you wish to create it for that look (for those who choose to be historically accurate whenever possible) or to modify the length, decoration or other appearance. The pattern pieces are made from heavy paper, not tissue and have clearly marked information on each piece. Over all, I can say that I will be using both the kirtle and gown (or robe) many times in both the long and medium lengths. Sizes run from the regular ones up to 26. I wear a 22-24 and cut the larger size 26 for myself just in case it ran a bit small. I've taken it in to my normal size really like the fit. Patterns from Reconstructing History are not cheap, but are backed with the designers research and made from quality products so I feel I got my moneys worth.
Cilean Stirling - Recommended
I am a Size 20 and I made this up without a toile, my first mistake, it was a little large I could have used the 18 or perhaps the 16 for a closer fit. The Sleeve was huge, I will have to redo this due to the size. I do recommend this pattern but always make a toile up!!
#301 - Shinrone Gown
Leah Watts
Definitely made for the advanced sewer. This pattern needs more information on adjusting the size -- if I hadn't seen photos online, I would never had known I needed to lengthen the bodice six inches. And when you're only 5'2", you don't have to lengthen very many bodices! I've only made the modern version (three wide panels in the skirt, rather than 23 skinny ones), so I can't speak to how well the historical reproduction version goes together. I can say that once I finally got the bodice pattern mostly adjusted (I'm still not certain I've got the shoulder measurement right) the dress itself didn't take too much time to assemble. You'll want help marking the front darts, though.
#302 - Women's Léine or Irish Chemise
Leah Watts
This is another pattern that could use more information on resizing. When I first sewed mine together, I discovered I could not fit my hand into the sleeve because it was too tight. I checked on the Reconstructing History e-mail list, and discovered that other women have had this same problem and the solution is to cut a 10" square gusset instead of the 5" square the pattern calls for. If you want the "bag" sleeve look, this means you'll need to cut the sleeves larger as well.
#502 - 16th Century Landskncecht Wams und Hosen
Judith Hollenberger - Recommended
I LOVE this pattern. I've always wanted to do a Landsknecht but never wanted to do all the legwork to draft a pattern so this was well worth the price to me. I would recommend this for an adventurous beginner or an intermediate sewer because of the fitting required. If you hang out with a lot of Landsknechts (which I don't) it will probably be easier for you since you will be familiar with how things should go together. The instructions are clear and the pattern seems to be pretty well sized. It does take a lot of fitting because the garments need to fit very closely. The pattern maker includes both modern and period assembly techniques. There is also a discussion board you can join where they discuss all the Reconstructing History patterns and the pattern maker is very considerate about receiving and answering emails from customers. I think the garment looks fantastic when completed and closely resembles the period illustrations. The one gotcha is when you're sewing the codpiece to the hosen. On the edition I had the connection point was not marked. But a quick email exchange with the pattern maker got it straightened out.
#504 - 16th century German Commonwoman's Gown
Britt Meitzler - Highly Recommended
I have been reenacting Landsknecht for a few years. When this pattern came out I jumped at the chance to finally make the dress of my dreams. The only problem was that I have never followed a pattern before. This dress turned out to be the easiest dress I have ever made. The pattern was so well explained that I had no questions. The dress turned out to look and fit exactly like period drawings of the era. I am extremely happy with this pattern. I recommend it to anyone who strives for authenticity in their costuming. The historical notes were just a little added bonus that I really wasn't expecting. All I have to say is "Danke" to the person who created this pattern.
#505 - 16th century German Accessories for Men and Women
Judith Hollenberger - Recommended
High-necked Hemd (undershirt): The Hemd pattern is actually just a set of instructions since there are no pattern pieces - everything is rectangles based on the wearer's measurements. I wouldn't say the pattern is worth the price just for the Hemd but the pattern includes many items needed to outfit a Landsknecht and the period research and construction techniques are very nice. The pattern maker is a historian and bases her patterns on extant garments. A beginner could easily sew this if they do the simple construction with no embellishment. If you're going to smock the neckline or sleeveheads and/or do blackwork embroidery it is obviously more advanced. I don't actually recommend doing blackwork over smocking but it sure does look cool.....(we won't discuss the cursing and gnashing of teeth involved.) The instructions are clear and the illustrations are adequate. If you are making this for a large or xtra-large person definitely use a full width of linen for both front and back instead of a half-width. I used a half-width and it's fine but I do think it would be better if it were a full width. Definitely two thumbs up.
Tellerbarett (platter hat): A little challenging because you have to judge what will look good and know how much infrastructure you will need for the hat to look like you want. The Tellerbarett pattern is pretty much a big flat circle. The construction details are amusing but as far as I can tell from period illustrations it is how the hat was made. The pattern maker is a historian and includes lots of background information and even instructions on stitches if you want to sew your hat authentically by hand. You have to love a pattern that comes with a bibliography! The construction is simple and the directions are clear. The lining piece will probably need to be doubled, I had to cut two instead of one to fit around the entire outer circumference. You really do want to cut a trial one out of cardboard to test the size - the original diameter is VERY large. My customer is a peacock but even for him I reduced the diameter. If you are doing a large size hat you absolutely must use both buckram (I used doubleweight) and wire the edge. Even with that the hat was much to floppy for my tastes and I wound up adding wire spokes to give more support and keep the hat flat when it was pinned to the coif. You will need a coif (also in the Accessories pattern) to wear this hat. Although the pattern is fairly expensive I found it was worth it because it includes many items and the construction and historical notes are very thorough. If you are equipping a Landsknecht man or woman this pattern is a good value.