The Great Pattern Review
Reconstructing History
#101 - Women's 1630s Bodice and Petticote
Mary Bucher
As I was making the Bodice in a short amount of time (3-4 evenings) for a person sight unseen, I chose to make the simplest version. I made View A of the bodice, which has a high, closed neckline, the narrow sleeves, and the gored skirting. According to the measurements I was given, the pattern specs said to make a size 22, but I cut all the pieces in size 24 (just in case). The construction of the bodice was fairly straight forward. I did not have too many sticking points. The instructions have only a few illustrations and, as I am a visual learner, I really wished for more -- especially when I got to the few problem spots, such as the sleeves and gores. All in all, I was able to assemble the bodice from beginning to end in a few evenings. My only problem with this pattern was the sizing. Admittedly, in an ideal situation I would have made a muslin, had the person try it on, etc, but I was too short on time for that. However, the bodice came out way too small. I'm smaller than the person I made it for and there was still a 3-4" gap in the front of the bodice when I tried it on. There is a companion pattern discussion list which I would recommend using (I was just too short of time in this case).
The Petticote is very straight forward and easy to make. It is just squares of fabric, cartridge pleated to a waist band, with either a tied or hooked closure (I made the latter). The pattern includes instructions on cartridge pleating.
#102 - Women's 1600-1660s Caps
Mary Bucher
This pattern includes several different caps: diadem, hollar (straight & curved), dutch (wide & narrow) and a coif with optional forehead cloth. I quickly made the dutch cap (to go with the quickly made 1630s bodice & petticote). It is very straight forward with easy instructions, but again it was very small. I have a big head, but it was also too small for my teenage daughter.
#201 - English Jacket and Petticote
Cilean Stirling
I was not happy how this jacket came out. I am a size 20, but according to the pattern I was not even a 26! So I added inches all over and still I was not satisfied. For me it would have been better to create this from scratch on my own than using this pattern. However? I have spoken to several others who are sizes 12, 10 and 8 respectively and they said they had no issues in using the patterns.
#204 - Elizabethan Closed Loose Gown, Loose Kirtle and Sleeves
Karen Bradley - Recommended
The gown and kirtle pattern are both excellent patterns for the intermediate seamstress. I would recommend this to be the first major project for someone who has made basic tunics, pants and other simple garb. The directions provided are clear and often accompanied by line drawings. I've found that the sizes on the pattern are for the most part accurate to actual size. I really appreciated the inclusion of period pictures and references that were used to come up with the overall design for both the kirtle and gown. These will let the individual decide for themselves how the garment would have looked in period and if you wish to create it for that look (for those who choose to be historically accurate whenever possible) or to modify the length, decoration or other appearance. The pattern pieces are made from heavy paper, not tissue and have clearly marked information on each piece. Over all, I can say that I will be using both the kirtle and gown (or robe) many times in both the long and medium lengths. Sizes run from the regular ones up to 26. I wear a 22-24 and cut the larger size 26 for myself just in case it ran a bit small. I've taken it in to my normal size really like the fit. Patterns from Reconstructing History are not cheap, but are backed with the designers research and made from quality products so I feel I got my moneys worth.
Cilean Stirling - Recommended
I am a Size 20 and I made this up without a toile, my first mistake, it was a little large I could have used the 18 or perhaps the 16 for a closer fit. The Sleeve was huge, I will have to redo this due to the size. I do recommend this pattern but always make a toile up!!
#301 - Shinrone Gown
Leah Watts
Definitely made for the advanced sewer. This pattern needs more information on adjusting the size -- if I hadn't seen photos online, I would never had known I needed to lengthen the bodice six inches. And when you're only 5'2", you don't have to lengthen very many bodices! I've only made the modern version (three wide panels in the skirt, rather than 23 skinny ones), so I can't speak to how well the historical reproduction version goes together. I can say that once I finally got the bodice pattern mostly adjusted (I'm still not certain I've got the shoulder measurement right) the dress itself didn't take too much time to assemble. You'll want help marking the front darts, though.
#302 - Women's Léine or Irish Chemise
Leah Watts
This is another pattern that could use more information on resizing. When I first sewed mine together, I discovered I could not fit my hand into the sleeve because it was too tight. I checked on the Reconstructing History e-mail list, and discovered that other women have had this same problem and the solution is to cut a 10" square gusset instead of the 5" square the pattern calls for. If you want the "bag" sleeve look, this means you'll need to cut the sleeves larger as well.
#502 - 16th Century Landskncecht Wams und Hosen
Judith Hollenberger - Recommended
I LOVE this pattern. I've always wanted to do a Landsknecht but never wanted to do all the legwork to draft a pattern so this was well worth the price to me. I would recommend this for an adventurous beginner or an intermediate sewer because of the fitting required. If you hang out with a lot of Landsknechts (which I don't) it will probably be easier for you since you will be familiar with how things should go together. The instructions are clear and the pattern seems to be pretty well sized. It does take a lot of fitting because the garments need to fit very closely. The pattern maker includes both modern and period assembly techniques. There is also a discussion board you can join where they discuss all the Reconstructing History patterns and the pattern maker is very considerate about receiving and answering emails from customers. I think the garment looks fantastic when completed and closely resembles the period illustrations. The one gotcha is when you're sewing the codpiece to the hosen. On the edition I had the connection point was not marked. But a quick email exchange with the pattern maker got it straightened out.
#504 - 16th century German Commonwoman's Gown
Britt Meitzler - Highly Recommended
I have been reenacting Landsknecht for a few years. When this pattern came out I jumped at the chance to finally make the dress of my dreams. The only problem was that I have never followed a pattern before. This dress turned out to be the easiest dress I have ever made. The pattern was so well explained that I had no questions. The dress turned out to look and fit exactly like period drawings of the era. I am extremely happy with this pattern. I recommend it to anyone who strives for authenticity in their costuming. The historical notes were just a little added bonus that I really wasn't expecting. All I have to say is "Danke" to the person who created this pattern.
#505 - 16th century German Accessories for Men and Women
Judith Hollenberger - Recommended
High-necked Hemd (undershirt): The Hemd pattern is actually just a set of instructions since there are no pattern pieces - everything is rectangles based on the wearer's measurements. I wouldn't say the pattern is worth the price just for the Hemd but the pattern includes many items needed to outfit a Landsknecht and the period research and construction techniques are very nice. The pattern maker is a historian and bases her patterns on extant garments. A beginner could easily sew this if they do the simple construction with no embellishment. If you're going to smock the neckline or sleeveheads and/or do blackwork embroidery it is obviously more advanced. I don't actually recommend doing blackwork over smocking but it sure does look cool.....(we won't discuss the cursing and gnashing of teeth involved.) The instructions are clear and the illustrations are adequate. If you are making this for a large or xtra-large person definitely use a full width of linen for both front and back instead of a half-width. I used a half-width and it's fine but I do think it would be better if it were a full width. Definitely two thumbs up.
Tellerbarett (platter hat): A little challenging because you have to judge what will look good and know how much infrastructure you will need for the hat to look like you want. The Tellerbarett pattern is pretty much a big flat circle. The construction details are amusing but as far as I can tell from period illustrations it is how the hat was made. The pattern maker is a historian and includes lots of background information and even instructions on stitches if you want to sew your hat authentically by hand. You have to love a pattern that comes with a bibliography! The construction is simple and the directions are clear. The lining piece will probably need to be doubled, I had to cut two instead of one to fit around the entire outer circumference. You really do want to cut a trial one out of cardboard to test the size - the original diameter is VERY large. My customer is a peacock but even for him I reduced the diameter. If you are doing a large size hat you absolutely must use both buckram (I used doubleweight) and wire the edge. Even with that the hat was much to floppy for my tastes and I wound up adding wire spokes to give more support and keep the hat flat when it was pinned to the coif. You will need a coif (also in the Accessories pattern) to wear this hat. Although the pattern is fairly expensive I found it was worth it because it includes many items and the construction and historical notes are very thorough. If you are equipping a Landsknecht man or woman this pattern is a good value.
Gina Lovin - Recommended
I would recommend this pattern. I made both the Tallerberet and the starfish hat. They were both easy enough. I trimmed the black velvet Tallerberet with a white small feather boa. It was stunning and I received a lot of complements and second glances. The starfish hat was pretty cool for how easy it was. I used tan wool coating. Unfortunately there aren’t many choices in colors for wool coating. Then I ran a brown scarf through the holes and it was almost like a liripipe. I’ll make more if I can just find where I put that pattern.
#707 - 1700s Frock Coat
Gina Lovin - Recommended
I made this coat twice. The pattern pieces are so basic that even a beginner will do fine with this one. There’s a little glitch at the side seam where it curves into the skirt but just trim it to fit and accept it. Revers were easy to add and you can get creative with trim. The fit was fine. The pocket placement was not like the picture and I highly advise that you not put it where it tells you to...raise it 6 inches or so. The cuffs are a little weird and I suggest that you just do it your own way and hand stitch as needed because they don’t really fit or work as is. I would recommend this pattern. But keep in mind it’s not perfect. It is your basic pirate coat.
#834 - Early 1800s Stays
Jennifer Brownell - Not Recommended
I have only made the brassiere version, so my review is for that only. The pieces went together well and the instructions were fine, so I'm not sure if the problems here were the fault of the pattern or just the whole concept of the design. The crossover design doesn't fit well because the ties fall under the brassier and merely dig into your chest. The historically accurate version doesn't even have a back, meanings that unless you have no fat at all, the ties will dig into you and ruin a smooth line for the bodice. I eventually gave up on the cross-over design and converted the front into a standard lace up. Also, the other version, the stays, shows no shoulder straps on the cover illustration, but it does have straps. I don't know why they wouldn't show them on the illustration.
#837 - Regency Morning Dress
Päivi Rutanen - Not Recommended
I am very disappointed by the design of the pattern. I tried to construct a mock up of the pattern, but in my experience the bodice pieces in size A, B, C or D do not match. You can see from the picture that the bodice side/front pieces are not a match to the back piece, but there are huge tabs left over from the fabric. Also the pattern is missing any sizing for the shoulder straps, all you have is a note to extend the straps to the desired length. These are simple adjustments for an experienced sewer, but the whole point of a ready made pattern is that one would not have to make any major adjustments or have to patch up the mistakes of the manufactorer. This was supposed to be my wedding gown but with these problems I doubt I can muster up the will to finish this piece.
In addition in searching for help from sewing forums (to make sure I'm not making a mistake myself) I've come across several other customers with the exact same problem and that this issue has been discussed with Reconstructing History previously, the earliest mentions on the subject is from as early as 2008!
For reference on the problems on this pattern, see this discussion.
#838 - Regency Ladies' Evening Dress
Terry Walker - Not Recommended
This was my first attempt at a Regency dress, so I felt I needed a pattern. I had issues with this pattern. First off, even though there are pictures of two different dresses on the cover, the pattern is for the dress on the right side. Problem was, I wanted the dress on the left. The pattern allows for a smooth back bodice or gathered, and short or long sleeves. But the longer length bodice of the cover dress on the left is not included, nor are there instructions for getting the skirt of the dress on the left, which appears to be smooth front. After making a muslin of the bodice, I ended up making it two sizes smaller, recutting the sleeves, changing where the sleeves attach, and narrowing the bodice bands. This pattern just did not work for me.
#901 - 1830s Dress Coat
Kim Yasuda - Not Recommended
Confusing. The layout instructions have a pocket lining, but no pattern piece or instructions for a pocket. The front cover picture makes it look like the front does not close and there are no markings for buttonholes or buttons on the pattern piece, but the Embellishments instructions says to make buttonholes and buttons as if double breasted. Whether the finished coat should be open with a gap (like modern tailcoats) or should close double breasted is a big difference when fitting and sewing. All sizes are drafted with the same length; no proportional increased length for larger sizes. Not sure what height person this was drafted for so hard to tell whether a certain size is going to need to be shortened or lengthened. Collar is odd with darts to make roll. Sew cut out portions on collar into darts. Attach collar side without dart to body (no join notches or markings so I attached wrong side of collar to body first time).
Pattern layout and instructions may have been recycled from a previous pattern and may not match exactly with this coat.
Called Reconstructing History for help. Kass returned the phone call within the hour. She said that the pattern is cut to close double breasted, but that historically men wore them too small so that they would open in front to show the waistcoat. I am not convinced that this coat pattern is cut to button closed.
Coat in photo was altered to fit a woman and breast pocket added.