The Great Pattern Review
Promenade Patterns
1910-14 Dancing or Dinner Gown
Carolyn Richardson
This pattern is a pretty easy pattern suitable for all levels of sewing experience. I made this dress in approximately a week and half of sewing in the evenings. There are several places where the pattern could be made a little clearer, or could use some more information. I would have appreciated a little more detail about the original gown in the Historical Notes, as once I started sewing I realized that I had interpreted the gown wrong. I had thought that the tunic bodice was the only part of the overdress, without realizing that it was lined in the same fabric as the bodice, and that the bodice itself had yet another lining which is constructed first. The casing for the neckline seems to be an unnecessary step if the bodice is fitted correctly in the first place. Although I did put the casing in, I found I really didn't need to use it when wearing the dress, and when I did have it drawn up it resulted in rather ugly gathers around the shoulders. Also, if you follow the instructions to run the drawstring loose in the casing, chances are good that you'll wind up with a "scoop" in the front corners of the neckline where they should be square. I'd recommend stitching the drawstring into the corners of the front neckline after putting it into the casing to avoid this problem. On a scale of 1-10, I'd rate this pattern a strong 8. I think just about anyone would be able to sew this pattern even if they aren't familiar with historical costume, and even if they're a novice sewer. The instructions are clear, although the drawings could use a little more clarity and detail to be really useful to the novice sewer. Carolyn is wearing her dress in the photo on the right.
1905 Summer Gown
Lorraine Carson - Recommended
This is a very simple and straightforward pattern taken from an original and adjusted for simplicity and the modern shape. I'd rank it an Intermediate pattern, because of the finishing required (French seams, plackets, freeform cummerbund.) However, even a Beginner could tackle this with help. I added a lot of added trim; because it was so simple I felt it needed more decoration to fit my style. I included additional tucks and lace on the skirt pieces and the center front. Because it is rather loose fitting, I'd say you're OK without doing a mock up of the bodice; even if you are a little bigger than their largest size. I'm about 2 inches bigger in the bust than their biggest size (20), so I added about an inch to the bodice front and yoke, which made it too large for me. Both the skirt and the bodice have instructions to "adjust to fit your waist size." So, here, too, you have a lot of leeway in making this work for you. I did not have the patience to do the hand gathering and used a machine, instead. I had no problems and saved myself a lot of time by doing so. You should probably use buttonhole thread if you do this by machine or by hand, as the stitches are not sewn over to secure them. A tip for doing the tucks - I use a very fine lead pencil and draw the line onto the fabric a few millimeters lower than the fold will be sewn. Then, I iron the folds in before sewing them thus creasing so that the line is hidden under the fold. You have much more freedom to adjust as necessary that way. After sewing, steam them down again and you'll get a smooth error free set of tucks.