The Great Pattern Review
Period Impressions
Danine Cozzens
Period Impressions is an accurate name for this company. I have had good luck with their patterns. They are based on historical garments but, assemble much like a McCall's pattern. Some characteristic lines may be compromised. Purists will want to add a seam here and there but, they are great for creating a gown that gets you to the event on time.
#202 - Boy's Buttonfly Pants
Rachel Franklin - Highly Recommended
I love this pattern! It makes up into the cutest little pair of knickers that you ever saw. The only thing that I didn't like about it was the instructions. I cannot count the number of times I put the first part of the fly in backwards because of the drawing. Just remember: on the first drawing of the fly, the fashion fabric is shown on the top of the unturned fly. In the second drawing, the muslin is shown on the top of the unturned fly. Just to know this before hand will save a lot of time. Peter is wearing the knickers that Rachel made.
#203 - Boy's One Button Shirt
Rachel Franklin - Recommended
This is a cute, easy shirt, if you make a few changes. The neck hole needs to be made much bigger (my brothers had trouble getting theirs on because the hole was too small!) and the shirt itself needs to be longer. Other than that, this is one of those get it cut out and sewn in an afternoon projects. Samuel is wearing the shirt that Rachel made.
#204 - Boy's Regimental Coat
Amy Denison - Recommended, with reservations and if you have at least intermediate sewing skills.
I made the coat out of some natural-colored twill, because I wanted more of a civilian look. It went together fairly well, but did not have placement markings on the sleeve pattern pieces, which the instructions tell you to use for setting the sleeves properly. After toying around with it I discovered that placing the sleeve seams halfway between the shoulder seam and side seams, on either side (sleeve curves facing front), seems to be the correct way to set the sleeve. The sleeves were a perfect fit, at least on the size 10. One problem with this coat, though, is that there are no size charts. I made the size 10 for my 8-year-old who has a 25" chest and 22" waist (which is an 8 in other patterns), hoping he'd grow into it, and it ended up fitting him pretty snugly. It's kind of funny because the size 8 pants I made for him from the Period Impressions pattern ended up being huge on him. Sadly, there aren't really any other options for boys' coat patterns.
#304 - Girl's Dress with Fichu
Dorothy O'Hare - Recommended, but not for the novice sewer.
The pieces all fit together well; except, the fichu which was too long in the back, but this was easily remedied. If I were to make this dress again, I would add a waist sash to cover up where the fichu attaches in the back of the dress for a more finished appearance, or put buttons on the back of the dress and buttonholes in the fichu. The hook and eye attachment method they instruct you to use is not very secure. The directions were rather minimal, and no grain lines were marked on any of the pattern pieces, so I made educated guesses as to which way the fabric grain should run on several of the smaller pieces. Also, the yardage given for the amount of lace trimming needed is insufficient for both the fichu and the sleeves. Add at least another yard to the amount stated on the pattern if you plan trim both.
#310 - Girl's 1838 Frock, Slip & Pinafore
Alessandra Kelley
This is a straightforward pattern, with reasonably clear and complete instructions printed on one of the pattern sheets. You end up with one of those straight-across, off-the-shoulder dresses you see in naive American portrait paintings. I had to do a bit more seam finishing than the instructions specified, and they seem to have forgotten to mention to hem the back opening of the pinafore. Nothing disastrous.
#400 - Chemisette
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
Of course a Chemisette is not a complicated garment so the minimalist instructions were not a problem.
#401 - Undersleeves
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
Another simple garment. A lot of instruction is not needed.
#403 - Tea Bodice
Jana Keeler - Highly Recommended
Easy. Simple. Great for beginners. Very attractive on all body sizes. I made up this pattern several times, making slight modifications. I added an additional lining in the jacket pieces to enhance the illusion of a separate jacket and blouse. The only problem is the pleating in the back does not match. Pin the pleats and adjust as needed to fit. Make a muslin first and you can get the back fitted exactly right. Yvette Keller is wearing the Tea Bodice made by Jana in the photo on the right.
Sheri Jurnecka - Highly Recommended
It's user friendly and it's easy to alter. I'll use it again.
Christine James - Highly Recommended
Recommended for beginners. It's easy and fits well.
#404 - 1860's Ladies Zouave Jacket & Reticule
Jana Keeler - Highly Recommended
Good for beginners. Easy. Very simple. Very flattering. I added sleeve caps which were made from rounded triangle pieces of fabric. I enhanced the pointed hem in front and back.
#406 - Basic Bodice
Cathy Raymond - Highly Recommended
For some reason Period Impressions bodices fit me better than any of the other Victorian bodice patterns I've tried. There was only a little unnecessary room through the bust/shoulder area. It is hardly noticeable. I used hook and eye tape for center closing; it worked well. Cathy's bodice is pictured at right with #603 Overskirts.
Annette Stubbs
Beginning level. This is the very first costume piece I sewed. I credit the ease of the pattern for my success, as the instructions were clear. I made the bodice in the same fabric as the skirt and added the sleeves in black organza. I think the sleeves are very effective and easy to make.
#407 - 1860's Ball Gown Bodice
Sally Norton - Recommended
Easy pattern to adjust. This was used for a fantasy garment so the sleeve pieces were not needed. The sleeves were created by draping to get the desired effect. The bodice fits very nicely. Pictured at left.
Rachel Franklin - Recommended
I really liked the way this bodice went together; it was quite easy to fit. The only problem I had was with pressing the bertha, and that was probably because the taffeta I was using held a crease so well I couldn't get it out when I needed to! I would recommend that you press the pleats, and then baste them together before you sew them to make sure you've got them positioned correctly. The other things that I changed were that I didn't use elastic in the sleeves (the fullness gathered onto a bias strip works very well) and I used buttons down the back instead of lacing. I also added a placket in the back for the buttons to go on. Becca (in the center) is wearing the bodice made by Rachel in the photo on the right.
#409 - Ball Gown Bodice
Kathleen Anne Crowley - Recommended
Good for beginners. It is flat-lined and very easy. The sleeve is a little complicated. Sit down and read the instructions word for word. It makes sense and is accurate. The illustration for the sleeve provide a clear example but, the finished sleeve does look slightly different from the illustration. Kathleen is wearing the bodice with #602 Flounced Skirt in the photo on the left.
Cathy Raymond - Not Recommended,
for beginners or those without patience.
The torso part of the bodice fits well and poses no significant problems. The puff sleeves have a bizarre net under-layer that is important to both the appearance and the shape of the sleeve. The instructions for the sleeve were so cryptic that I gave up on this project for nearly two years. I finally finished the gown by ignoring the meager instructions entirely and, instead, experimented with pining the sleeves together and looking at the sketch provided in the instructions. Cathy is pictured on the right.
Jennifer Mihaud - Recommended
No problems. It turned out very well. Jennifer is wearing the bodice in the photo next to her #602 Flounced Skirt review.
#420 - 1770 Polonaise and Petticoat
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
I curved the back seams and added more boning. I made the petticoat with a drawstring waist but, it slipped so I added a waistband. I also added pockets. Ellie is in the photo on the left.
Monique Motyl - Highly Recommended
Easy to assemble. This pattern will work for everyone. Monique is wearing her dress in the photo on the right.
Dana Reese - Highly Recommended
I absolutely adore the Period Impressions Polonaise and used it for a recreation of the peach finale dress in the film Pirates of the Caribbean. It fit perfectly and I made it in one day! I give it 6 out of 5 stars.
Sheri Jurneka - Highly Recommended
I have used this pattern several times making both day and evening gowns. I modified the back, curving the seams for a more correct period look. Sheri is wearing the first dress she made using this pattern in the photo on the left (she added a stomacher). She is wearing a day dress made for the Poldark Picnic in the photo on the right (this one closes by lacing in front).
Karen H. von Bargen - Not Recommended
I have finally calmed down enough (from Halloween, mind you) to send along my comments about this pattern. I HATED this pattern. The bodice was WAY too short and had to be modified over and over and over, the sleeves were too tight, something I knew in advance and had to recut a couple of times. The directions were good and the dress had the potential to come together easily enough but for all the modifications to make it fit. Our rabbit offered his opinion and peed on the pattern and I had to throw it out! Never again! At least I have enough yardage to make a nice quilt. Just so you know. Gotta love that rabbit!
Frannie Germeshausen - Highly Recommended
I've joined the dozens of happy, peppy people who've made the Period Impressions 1770 Polonaise and Petticoat. I was really pleased with the outcome. They fit closely (which they should), but since I have plump arms I had to adjust the front of the arm's eyes and make the sleeve a little wider. The only problem I had was with her pleating and box pleating instructions. The math just didn't work, so I adjusted things (the skirt, the box pleated ruffle on one petticoat) to fit and look good. I had a lot of fun with the trimmings. The peach dress is trimmed with an antique gold lace and more than 100 ribbon roses. The green dress is trimmed simply with some green silk pinked ruching I was lucky enough to find on sale. I'm planning to make a day dress. I really like this pattern. These pictures of Frannie were taken during Carnivale at two balls held in Venetian palazzos.
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
Very easy to make, to modify and to wear. It looks good on every type of body. I cut the back of the skirt wider to accommodate a bum roll, slightly longer to create a demi-train and added a stomacher. I also added the deep lace ruffle on the skirt (copied from a portrait). As with all patterns, make a muslin first and then use the muslin as your lining. Pictured at left.
Christine James - Highly Recommended
It's a great pattern. Easy and attractive. I've made it up several times and will probably use it again. I added a ruffle to the skirt and bows at the bodice closure to the gown shown at center. I added a ruffle to the skirt robe and quilted the skirt on the gown shown on the right. Both are correct for the late 18th century.
Autumn Carey-Adamme -
Highly Recommended
This pattern is good for everyone. I've used it several times for both day and evening wear. I did ribbon work on a day dress and ruching on a formal gown. Autumn is wearing the dresses in the photos on the left and center.
Kathleen Crowley -
Highly Recommended
I made this version by the book (no tweaking the pattern). But I made it out of vinyl tablecloth fabric in two hours. Happy 4th of July! Pictured on the right.
#421 - 1760-1775 Jacket
Rebecca Prince - Recommended
This pattern is really a close copy of the same garment in Patterns of History by Janet Arnold. The instructions are accurate but terse. Pin all the pieces together forming the jacket before you start sewing so you'll understand how it all fits together. Rebecca is wearing the jacket in the photo on the left.
Sally Norton - Recommended
I cut the gores wider because I was going to wear a bum roll. The gores needed more fabric to 'sit on top' of the bum roll. Beryl Vonderheid is wearing the jacket made by Sally in the photo to the right.
#440 - 1830's Day Dress and Pelerine
Pat Shaw - Recommended
The dress and pattern instructions could be improved, but I felt that the final result was a good representation of the period. She is also wearing the #819 1838 Bonnet and Cap in the photo to the right.
Janet Canning
The sleeves are a bit tricky but, they work and they are correct for the period. The sleeves are in 3 pieces. The top piece near the shoulder is a plain panel and it's fine. The mid-sleeve section is gathered. The bottom of the sleeve balloons out and looks strange while it is being made. It's hard to be sure you are doing it correctly. The yoking on the bodice front is made up of strange jagged pieces. It is time-consuming to construct and is not really accurate for the 1830's. It would have been simpler (and more accurate) to add a pleated Bertha.
#445 - 1837 Day Dress
Lorraine Carson
I prefer the look of a pointed bodice so I used the pattern I like from Truly Victorian. The sleeves were a bit time-consuming but, are very pretty and straightforward. They look lovely. Be aware they are very long, if you follow the pattern. The length is correct for the period but, I couldn't eat without staining them. For the second wearing, I shortened the sleeves. The Bertha was a chore! I highly recommend you toss this piece of the pattern out. Instead, fold a piece of fabric cut on the bias and attach it or sew strips together and lay them on top of bodice, creating a design and then attach them directly to the bodice. Pictured on the left.
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
Loren is wearing the finished dress in the photo on the left. This was a pretty straight forward pattern with the exception of the pleated bertha overlay. I could not get this to look right. While the bodice pattern fit me perfectly the overlay looked bad, in addition this particular style was not flattering to me. So, I decided to go for a slightly later look and ended up using the bodice from Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1800-1909, Pattern Sheet #12, Bodice C. This bodice worked well with the Period Impressions sleeves and skirt. Pictured on the right.
Jill Silbert - Highly Recommended - with some changes.
This dress works best as a skirt and bodice. Connecting the two only leads to misery when someone steps on the hem. Bodice - The 'gathered' sleeve will not stand up to washings only using pulled threads. Solution - gather, interface between fabric and lining, run regular stitching over gathered ones. Set each row to match. The pattern piece that is given for the 'overlay' looks very 'funky' and is actually worthless. Solution - take the pattern piece and throw it away, seriously! Cut a rectangular piece of material the same width and length as the pattern piece without the jagged edges. Place folds on this piece to compliment the bustline, and line up with the top edge of the bodice. Pipe the bodice neckline to finish off the edge and give a neat appearance to the top. This compliments the piped piece in the middle of the bodice and pulls the entire top together. These tops are fastened with hooks and eyes, add additional ones or substitute buttons for high activity. Skirt - This skirt shows gaging, I've done 'quick gathering' when the skirt is needed for the next day, and the waistband gets very bulky, not the way to go, unless it's an emergency! I prefer knife pleating this skirt, although it's not "period appropriate', it looks much better due to the extreme amount of fabric used. Put this on a separate waist band, DON'T attach to skirt. To keep the two together in the back, I added a LARGE hook/eye on the skirt and bodice. All in all, I loved this pattern, and found that by using common sense, this pattern actually produced a dress that was pretty, and somewhat comfortable to wear. Of course, a corset adds to the overall view, but if you don't want to wear one, you can still get by and look period appropriate.
#447 - 1845 Day Dress
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
Went together without difficulty. Instructions are clear and accurate. Fits well and would look good on any figure. The chevron tucking in the bodice is not difficult; the result has a subtle slimming effect. Sally is wearing this gown in the photo on the right.
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
The cover illustration makes this pattern look more complex than it really is. The worst part is actually securing the skirt to the bodice. A patient beginner should be able to get an acceptable result from this pattern.
#460 - 1809 Day Wear
Catalina Hannan - Highly Recommended
Easy and very pretty. Recommended for a beginner. Pictured on the left.
Christine James - Highly Recommended
Clear, well-ordered instructions. Well marked pattern pieces. Easy to assemble. A beginner could definitely make this dress. Pictured on the right.
Kendra Van Cleave - Recommended
This is a very easy, well-marked pattern with clear instructions. HOWEVER, the cut is very modern. It will get you a Regency-esque dress but most of the construction is inaccurate. I shortened the back length (it is much too long), took out some of the skirt width (much too wide), and switched the sleeves for the 1805 straight sleeve from Hunnisett's Period Patterns for Stage & Screen 1800-1909. Make sure that you don't follow the instructions to gather the skirt all the way around the gathers should only be in the back. Make a 2" pleat (facing towards the back) at the side, and pull up the skirt front about 1" to make the front lie flat.
Janet Canning -
Highly Recommended
No problems. I do suggest making a muslin first and paying special attention to the lower sleeves. You may find the sleeve is too wide for you. I've used this pattern for both day and evening dresses. Her dresses are in the photos to the right.
#461 - 1809 Spenser Jackets
Danine Cozzens - Recommended
The sleeves were too long for me and I had to recut them but, there are supposed to be long. I've seen extant garments with sleeves that come down to the knuckles. Other than that alteration, it was fine and is very comfortable. Pictured on the left.
Kendra van Cleave - Recommended
This is a very easy pattern. I made it in one day in a good brown wool. Beginners could handle this as a third or forth project. Pictured on the right.
Frances Grimble - Not Recommended
I had a lot of problems with the sleeves. The length, the shape, and the "hang" all seemed strange. I made six muslins and improved the pattern somewhat, but it still wasn't great. I finally gave up on it.
Christine James - Highly Recommended
A wonderful pattern. Clear instructions. Nothing tricky. Very easy to assemble. Goes together quickly. I'll definitely use is again. Christine is wearing her Spenser in the photo on the right.
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
This went together fairly easily, although I had to do some fiddling with the cuffs. I ended up doing the version with the drawstrings at the waistband. The end result is quite pretty.
Ann Wass - Recommended
I, too, found the sleeves of this pattern to be much too long (like 6 inches!), even given the longer length of the period. I was glad I cut a muslin first before cutting into my fashion fabric. It is like the drafter added extra length, forgot, and added it again. The original pattern has no grain marked on the sleeve, so I drew the grain, as is customary, to be straight from the cap, but it does hang rather oddly, and I can't figure out how to correct it. I also found that the body was a little short--I added 1" in length and, on my last attempt, put a 1" band on the bottom, but it may be that the waistline of my gowns is a little lower than some. I made the view with the basque, or peplum, in back, first. Then used the pattern, in white cotton, for a Canezou, and am now using the pattern as a base for two wool Spencers. I am changing style lines and adding cuffs.
#504 - Mid 19th Century Chemise
Jeannie Caffro - Highly Recommended
The pieces went together very easily, and the directions were quite clear.
#511 - 1760-1770's Half-Boned Stays
Frannie Germeshausen
This is my first corset, and it seemed surprisingly easy. I didn't have help, so I just went with a size (14), and it actually fit. The main part of the work took a day - cutting, sewing the panels together, forming the channels. I chose to cover it, which was pretty simple - just lay it down, baste it on and bind around it. (But only at the top and the bottom - I had to guess how to finish it at the back.) A few glitches that might confuse a beginner - all the pattern pieces say cut one, when for all but the center front you need to cut 2 for each layer of fabric. The tabs at the bottom were strange to match up - some pattern pieces seemed to indicate they should be separated, some seemed to have seam lines - I had to make some guesses. The top and bottom are finished by binding with bias tape. There was no specific instruction to do this at the back, but it only made sense to do the same. As I write this, the corset is finished, except for finishing the binding on the tabs. It's taking hours of hand finishing. All in all, I'm pleased, and have the courage to try more challenging corset styles.
Alessandra Kelley - Not Recommended
This pattern was way too big. I ordered my size by their charts (Size 14) and my muslin was huge, huge, huge. I whacked an inch off both side seams and a half inch each off two other seams. It's still 2" too big at the bust and 4" too big at the waist. And that's if you lace it completely closed -- or would do, because of course, I never finished the thing. With all the modifications I tried, I may as well have drafted my own from Fitting and Proper or Costume Close-Up.
#512 - 1760-70's Pocket or Side Hoops
Frannie Germeshausen - Recommended
I made them twice; once in normal white cotton (for Carnival in Venice) and once in red lace (for Burning Man). This is an easy pattern (I made the second set in one evening), and not only are they effective, the red lace pair is very cute. There was one instruction to sew the bottom piece "between the dots," but there were no dots. I think this caused a little bit of bunching in the bottom corner of the first one I made. Other than that, I'm very pleased with the outcome. The red lace gown worn over the side hoops was made from #420 1770 Polonaise.
#601 - 1860's Gored Skirt
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
It is almost as simple a garment as the Chemisette (400). The only fitting necessary is the length of the waistband and the skirt length.
#602 - Flounced Skirt
Jennifer Mihaud - Recommended
It turned out very well. Jennifer is wearing the skirt in the photo on the left.
Rachel Franklin - Highly Recommended
The directions are clear and very understandable, and the skirt turns out beautiful! The only thing that I changed was the attachment of the top flounce (I attached it like the other ones, for a more finished look). In retrospect, I would put a placket in the skirt where it closed, so that in case it came open, nothing could be seen. Rachel is wearing the skirt that she made in the picture on the right.
Kathleen Anne Crowley - Recommended
Pretty easy. I changed the attachment of the ruffles to attach on the outside. The instructions are accurate and well marked. Good for beginners. Kathleen is wearing the flounced skirt in the photo next to her #409 Ball Gown Bodice review.
#603 - Overskirts
Rachael Franklin - Recommended
I used the shirred overskirt, and it worked fairly well, though there were no directions for the shirring. It wasn't too hard to figure out, though, and the rest of the pattern was pretty good. Pictured at right.
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
This is a nice, simple pattern. There are few directions but, few are required. Kathleen is wearing the Overskirt in the photo next to her #406 Basic Bodice review.
Annette Stubbs - Recommended for Beginning and Intermediate level sewers.
These are a nice addition to any skirt. I would be cautious of the type of material being chosen, but tulle was very common during this time and these patterns would lend themselves well to it.
#607 - Corded and Tucked Petticoats
Alessandra Kelley - Not Recommended
I have several problems with this pattern. Overall, this company provides minimal instructions, and this pattern is no exception; although it is a simple enough pattern to follow. Either a piece is missing from the pattern, or I just had the bad luck to get an incomplete one; however, given the simple nature of the pieces' cut I could improvise a replacement. The tucked petticoat is gored, which makes sewing the tucks more difficult, and is, I believe, an inauthentic cut for the era of corded petticoats. (I admit it; I prefer authenticity.) The corded petticoat pattern instructions direct you to sew the cords in before sewing up the side seam, which leads to the dreaded inward dent at the seam where the cords are caught, plus it's murder on your sewing machine and impossible to hand sew.
#610 - 1740-1770's Petticoat
Sally Norton - Recommended
Easy. Perfect for beginners.
#714 - Men's Shell Jacket
Rachel Franklin
I wouldn't go so far as to say this pattern is not recommended, but be careful when you're buying it. I found that it ran small; the 38 I ordered was more like a 36. Read the directions very carefully before putting together the lining and the jacket; the drawing is rather scanty. Other than that, the jacket went together very well, everything fit together and the finished product was very nice. Steve is wearing the jacket that Rachel made on the right in this photo.
#718 - Men's Greatcoat
Jeannie Caffro - Recommended
It went together quite easily and the directions weren't hard to follow. The only problem I found was in the cutting directions for the cuffs - they only wanted you to cut enough for one sleeve. My husband's only complaint was a lack of pockets, so I added pockets into the side seams and added an inside pocket on the breast of the lining. I was working in heavy wool melton cloth, so the collar attachment was a little tough, but only because my machine wasn't meant to sew all those layers of wool.
#731 - Men's 18th Century Dress Coat
Andy Crumbacker - Not Recommended
I have not finished this garment but have had difficulty from the beginning. At first glance, it appeared this would be a typical assembly of a coat, but this pattern leaves out much detail and instruction making it frustrating to work with. The instructions are poorly laid out and are poorly diagrammed. Drawing and text are smudged in many areas somewhat reminiscent of the kindergarten artwork on the refridgerator. Instructions say to sew the back seam to the dot but the pattern contains no dot. The instructions also fail to tell you to gather excess material at the shoulder and the side seam. The instructions show how to sew a pocket flap (a beginner-level task) yet it does not have any instruction on the rest of the pocket construction. You have only the pieces and your own knowledge of what should be done. I recommend to be prepared to make some muslin practice pockets before marking and cutting on the final piece. A major flaw in my opinion, the pattern itself fails to mark any pocket placement or button holes. Although the instructions say align collar to the dot, there are no dots (though this can be figured out). Although a minor detail, there is no arrow to indicate grain direction. The pattern can best be described as sparse in its detail. This pattern is deficient in many areas and there are better patterns out on the market that cost about the same. This pattern will frustrate many just by what omits. Period Impressions should provide updated and more thorough instructions to customers purchasing this pattern.
#741 - Civilian Vest
Lisa VandenBerghe - Recommended with reservations.
As with my other experience with this company, the directions were pretty sketchy and I found myself spending time figuring things out. The most disturbing thing was that the drawing with the step collar is not how it makes up. I made both versions and they both open low like the drawing of the shawl collar vest. The chest pocket is also a bit low. Their technique for the pocket welts leaves something to be desired. I will do it my own way next time. Otherwise, it fit nicely without alterations.
Linda Bryan - Not Recommended for an active man.
I first made 42 size--very tight, too snug at armholes, yet paunches out. Also, directions are unnecessarily hard for beginners.
Some fixes:
1. To enlarge armholes, I made a dot on pattern on front armhole opening--out 2 inches on a 45 degree diagonal from the underarm point. Then I redrew the armhole curve so that it begins higher on chest, passes through the new spot, and meets side seam 1.25 inch lower. Did same on pattern for back of armhole, being even more generous in enlarging the curve. This worked.
2. I increased girth at least an inch, and straightened the side seams to remove paunch. One of my early prototypes shows an improvised fix: inserted a long vertical rectangle from underarm to hem at each side, producing a second side seam. (Pieces about 2" wide included tiny seam allowances.) Not too noticeable and it salvaged my investment in pricey brocade.
3. Don't believe envelope drawing. Both collar styles are the same length, despite drawing, so redraw the stepped collar longer. Envelope says purchase 6 buttons but drawing disagrees. (Okay to buy 6 mediums, although 7 or 8 smaller buttons might be nice.) Drawing does not show
double-pointed waistline option so draw it in with dotted lines.
4. Straighten pocket positions so they're parallel with each other and waistline. Make welt for upper pocket that fits smaller slit length.
5. For warm weather use, modify back by omitting upper layer of fabric. (Just use lining fabric--face or bind upper edge and hem the lower edge before sandwiching the back into side seams. Handstitch side seams?)
My additions to the directions.
A) Before beginning, read directions and enclose each stage of construction in penciled box. Number boxes. Then connect with arrows to show sequence.
B) Where pattern says "With wrong sides of collar to right side of vest front" change to: "With LINED sides of collar." Where it says to baste the collar to front, add note to first iron and adjust collar to lie very flat so lining does not peek out from back.
C) After "With right sides together sew center back seams, repeat with lining" add "SEW LINING FRONT TO FACING FRONT, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER."
D) After "Stitch armholes, across bottoms, and up fronts" add "DON'T STITCH SIDE SEAMS."
E) After "matching armhole and lower seams. Stitch." add "DO THIS THROUGH HOLE."
#745 - Men's 18th Century Waistcoat
Sally Norton - Not Recommended
Cut for average sizes. If the gentleman has a broad back, check the fit carefully. Turning the back vent is tricky. You may have to redo it several times to get it to lay smooth. It seemed as if it was much harder than it needed to be. I was never really happy with the result. I much prefer the Eagles View pattern.
Kimberly Villian - Not Recommended
It's VERY difficult to sew according to their directions, which are minimal when good, and non-existent for the most part. The back vent is a major pain to get to lay right. The pocket linings do not fit; you have to make wider linings. On a guy without a rotund belly, this pattern tends to be baggy around the waistline. I still can't figure out what the heck they want you to do with the lining. I just fully lined the darn thing and disregarded their instructions.
#752 - Three Button Shirt
Kimberly Villian - Not Recommended
The sleeves are much too short as is and the neck bands are far too small. Even when you order the largest size (meant for 52" chest), you can only barely squeeze in a 43" chest. I used the idea for the button placket and cuffs from this pattern and used the man's shirt from the Simplicity Highland Man outfit with lengthened sleeves. It was a much better fit all around. I wasted a lot of time and fabric trying to get the Period Impressions pattern to work, and at best, the shirt would fit a 15 year old boy.
#753 - Dr. Walker's Dress Shirt
Lisa VandenBerghe - Recommended
I gotta say the directions are a bit sketchy. If you know dressmaking/tailoring, you can make it up real nice. Otherwise it is a pretty basic shirt. Definitely use interfacing.
#770 - 19th Century Men's Drawers
Jeannie Caffro - Recommended, even for fairly inexperienced sewers.
I had no problem with the directions, and the fit seemed to be very good without alterations.
#775 - Men's Civil War Civilian/Infantry Pants
Steve Fairman - Not Recommended
Most of it is easily sewn together and the appropriate instructions are clear and easily understood. The instructions for the button fly are impossible!! I have tried four times and cannot identify what is wrong with them. The sketches do not clearly show how the pieces are to be put together. I will never use this pattern again.
#776 - Men's 18th Century Breeches
Lisa Prindle - Not Recommended
There has to be an easier breeches pattern available. At first, I thought it would go smoothly, but the lack of balance marks on the paper pattern that are mentioned in the "directions" just about did me in! The illustrations are poor, and I'm still not clear on how to assemble the leg placket and leg band - I pitched the directions and winged it. I eliminated the back triangular gusset, as the breeches fit the gentleman better with the waistband sewn together. I'm not clear why the back pants pieces curve in at the waist side seam, as it causes a funny pulling in the seat of the pants at the waist. Don't choose this pattern unless you are very familiar with the construction of breeches and can fix these problems. I ended up hand-sewing most of it, as I wouldn't dare use the machine on anything so tricky.
#778 - 1730-1770's French Fly Front Breeches
John Carroll - Not Recommended
I have tried this pattern several times, and I have never been happy with it. The pocket is constructed in such a way, that it is useless. The pocket is too shallow, and the opening makes it possible for things to easily fall out of the pockets. The waistband fits together awkwardly, and when finished does not lie well on the body. Unless the person constructing these breeches has a lot of experience with altering patterns I do not recommend using this pattern. It is definitely not for a beginner.
#817 - 1853 Bonnet
Cathy Raymond - Highly Recommended
This pattern went together very easily for me. If you are making it up for reenactment purposes, I suggest using felt or buckram for the foundation instead of the pasteboard the pattern specifies.
#819 - 1838 Bonnet and Cap
Kathryn Newell - Not Recommended
I spent quite a deal of time on the Web trying to find patterns for caps and bonnets of the 1830's but, I didn't have much luck. What caught my eye was this pattern is identified as 1838. I took that to indicate the source of this pattern was A Workwoman's Guide, an 1830 sewing and pattern guide reprinted in facsimile a few years ago.
Long Story Short: Save your money. Get a copy of From the Neck Up by Denise Dreher. It contains generic patterns for various historical styles. The draft titled "Mid 19th Century Woman #1" is virtually identical to this Period Impressions pattern but, with one major point in its' favor. The Mid 19th Century draft actually shows the pattern layout; the Period Impressions pattern does not.
The Period Impressions Cap pattern will not work but, neither does the original pattern in the A Workwoman's Guide. I had to square off the back of the cap (which is weirdly curved) and create a center back seam. Fror some reason the Period Impressions pattern instructions say to put tucks on the front of the cap. A Workwoman's Guide says to lay on lace or netting or some other trim. I choose to use simple, narrow flat lace. The Period Impressions pattern is a good copy of the original, even to the measurements. I found that 1 nail = 2-1/4 inches.
The Bonnet instructions (murky) may startle some people by directing the use of posterboard. Believe it or not, this is authentic, at least for the brim. A Workwoman's Guide advocates using pasteboard for the brims of various bonnets, even bonnets made of silk. I found the board much easier to use than millinery wire and buckram. It stands up well to being manhandled. My pattern pieces were mislabeled. The piece for the pasteboard was labeled as being for the covering fabric and lining. I used spray adhesive to attach a layer of felt on one side to soften the edges. For the outer covering of the bonnet, I used a fake linen. The lining was cotton broadcloth. I had to rework the brim quite a few times because I want an earlier 1830's look. The Period Impressions pattern brim is just way too wide and too tall. I am a hulking Amazon (6' tall, big boned, wide framed with a big, fat head) so for this pattern to be too large was startling. I had to write onto the pattern where the seam lines were located. I ended up having to enlarge in many directions for the crown, since I have long hair which I wear properly up and a bonnet cap. Thank heavens I made quite a few poster board mock-ups. I am finally at the phase where I just have to decorate the bonnet. I ended up virtually re-drafting the entire pattern which added to the Aggravation Factor and used up far too much of my time. I feel I could have done just as good a job if I had gone straight to From the Neck Up and used the pattern in that book.
Pat Shaw
The bonnet pattern instructions are not comprehensive. I had a bit of trouble putting it together. It didn't turn out too badly for my first attempt at millinery. Pat is wearing the bonnet in the photo next to her review of the #440 1830's Day Dress and Pelerine.
Alessandra Kelley - Not Recommended
The shape looks okay, I guess, but the instructions are, as usual, barely there. I haven't been able to figure out the cap yet and I really don't feel like putting in the mental effort to try to decipher yet another one of this company's cryptic patterns. They want you to use poster board in the bonnet. That might be okay for theatrical use, but if I'm going to go to all the trouble of making a bonnet, I'd prefer to use proper hat making materials.