The Great Pattern Review
Period Costume for Stage and Screen
by Jean Hunnisett
18th Century Corset - Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800
Andrea Agnew - Highly Recommended for the experienced seamstress.
I used this pattern to replicate the corset seen in pirates of the caribbean. It was a perfect match, and in all other ways masterfully drafted. It was a little slow going at first, but once I caught on it worked out well. Jean Hunnisett explains the history of the garments and provides tips that only much experience could afford. I highly suggest using the metric system when enlarging any pattern from this book however. This book is definantly worth the price, I will use it many times in the future.
18th Century - Robe a l'Anglaise - Bodice - Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800
Kyrsten Comoglio - Recommended
I enlarged Hunnisett's pattern and then took a look at Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion and Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail to study the details of this style. I used Hunnisett's pattern for the polonaise and bodice. I made alterations based on what I found in the Arnold and Bradfield books. I ended up with a pattern that is much more accurate than any of the commercial patterns I've seen. The fullness at the back is pleated into place to fit and then stitched instead of cut. I followed Arnold's layouts on how to pleat the overskirt into the waistband to make the polonaise.
1878 Corset - Pattern Sheet 1 - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Lucy Hammersley - Highly Recommended
I would highly recommend this corset, it went together quickly and easily and I was able to make a contemporary looking unique corset in a matter of hours that looks great and is dead comfortable! this would be a great pattern for a first timer as it comes with very easy clear step by step instructions!
c.1809-1810 - Red Spot Bodice - Pattern Sheet 2, View C - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Loren Dearborn - Highly Recommended
I love this book! This bodice pattern went together well and looks very flattering. It gives a smooth across the bust look. Larger busted women will need to increase the depth of the front cup pieces to make this fit correctly. I put this bodice with the skirt from the Folkwear Empire Dress pattern.
c.1800-1825 - Three-Piece Sleeve - Pattern Sheet 3, View F - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Kendra Van Cleeve - Recommended
This makes a gorgeous 1820's sleeve, but it's a bit tricky to put together. If you want to pipe the edge, be prepared to hand sew it. The only issue I had was that I used a sheer fabric and so needed to draft my own under-sleeve pattern.
c.1800-1825 - Corset - Pattern Sheet 6, View A - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
This corset works very well in giving the "lift and separate" look you see so often in Regency paintings. It was a bit difficult and time consuming to make, especially the gussets, but not really any more so than other corsets.
c.1800-1825 - Corset Bodice - Pattern Sheet 6, View B - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Kendra Van Cleave - Recommended
I blew up the pattern pieces on a photocopier until it looked close to my size and worked from there. I had a difficult time getting the gussets in the right shape, and getting the front to lie flat against my chest between my breasts. I eventually left out the gussets to make more of an 18th century shape.
c.1830-1865 - Petticoats - Les Sylphides Type Net Petticoat - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
This is a great petticoat for the large skirts in the pre-hoop era. Easy but a bit time consuming to make and much easier to wear than 4 or 5 petticoats!
c.1839-1850 - Bodice - Pattern Sheet 12, View C - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Loren Dearboran - Highly Recommended
I love this bodice. It went together simply and looks great. I used this bodice with the skirt of the Period Impressions 1837 dress.
Eight-Steel Bustle - Pattern Sheet 27, View C - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Karolina Granath - Highly Recommended
This is a beautiful bustle and very easy to make. Beige cotton and crinoline steel were used. I placed the boning on the outside instead of on the inside, and used plastic boning along the grommets where it laces. The back piece (the bustle part) was made 2,5" wider to make the bustle bigger. Her bustle is in the pictures to the right.
Catherine Scholar - Highly Recommended
I’ve made this bustle three times. It’s simple and easy, looks great and supports even very heavy skirts. The only tricky part is sewing the center back inside seam, which has to happen after the steels are in. They really want to snap straight while you stitch it, so it helps to have someone else hold the steels in place while you sew. I see from Karolina’s review that she put a lacing in there – that would probably be easier and more adjustable.
1898 Skirt - Pattern Sheet 33 - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Kij Greenwood - Recommended
I used this pattern for an 1895's ballgown. It makes up beautifully, creating a skirt with a dramatic sweep and slight train. I flat-lined the entire skirt with a cotton broadcloth to give the fabric added crispness and weight. During this period, the skirt hems were often stiffened at the bottom with horsehair lining of around 10-12 inches. I faced the hem with a 12 inch facing of stiff fabric, which is then cross stitched to the flat lining only. The hem of each gore is very shaped which helps to achieve the sculptural folds created in the skirt, so a faced hem treatment worked out best anyway. I also machine stitched 5 inch wide nylon horsehair to the inside of the facing to give an extra stiffness as well. In addition, I added a taffeta dust ruffle to help protect the hem. I love the feel and movement of this skirt. It's wonderful to do a waltz in. My only problem with it has been training my husband not to step on the train.
1901 Corset - Pattern Sheet 34 - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909
Katherine Caron-Greig - Highly Recommended
This corset went together beautifully. I decided to try this one instead of a commercial pattern since none available came in my size. I used an overhead projector to enlarge it and made a few alterations based on the enlarged measurements before I cut out my first muslin. The pieces fit together perfectly and the only part that presented any difficulty was setting the hip pieces in smoothly. They were much easier in the coutil I used for my final corset than muslin. The work required is definitely worth it, since they really define the waist. I wouldn't recommend this corset for a beginner, but once you've made a corset or two it shouldn't present any problems.