The Great Pattern Review

Jean Hunnisett - Period Costume for Stage and Screen

1901 Corset - Pattern Sheet 34 - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909

Graeme Johnston - Highly Recommended

I used this pattern for a corset for a female impersonater.  I scaled up the corset using the old-fashioned Scale-up-and-grade method. (I use this all the time for my patterns.  I find it quick and accurate.)  I made a trial fitting in solid canvas.  At this fitting, I redrew some of the front seams to line up with the wearer's shape.  I pinned out all the bust allowance of the original pattern, making the mock-up smooth fitting over his chest. 

When making up the corset, I used preshrunk cotton drill for the lining with red satin (yuck!) as the outer fabric,and cotton tape  sewn to the underside for the bone casings.  I covered moulded bra cups with satin and lace and hand sewed them in position on top of the corset at the front. The join under the bra cup was covered with bias satin  through which I threaded bra-cup wires.  The top and bottom od the corset were overbound with satin bias.  I used nylon boning for the bones throughout ( except for the front busk).  I was able to shape these bones using a steam iron and a lot of swearing.  The guy was very pleased with the result.