The Great Pattern Review
Heidi Marsh
Lisa Swehla
She offers these general comments on Heidi Marsh Patterns: They're not recommended except as rough guides for pattern piece shapes. I have found several instances of troubles with sheets for the wrong size in the envelope, pattern pieces not matching up, vague directions. I have tried 5 of her patterns and not found a one I was truly pleased with which is sad because the illustrations she uses to sell the patterns are wonderful. Her renditions of the garment in the instructions is just a rough sketch. I find the instructions cryptic and minimal.
#LB-1-BGT - Basic Ballgown Bodice
Gwen Schultrich - Not Recommended
This pattern has a page and a half describing how to make piping, including illustrations, but there was nothing about how the bodice is supposed to be closed, and maybe a total of a paragraph's worth of actual instructions on how to assemble the bodice. I ended up having to consult costume collectors about what would be a correct back closure for this bodice. the finished product looks nice but it was a real pain to make.
#LB-5-ED - Evening Dress c. 1859
Patricia Cannata - Not Recommended
The instructions are scattered, vague, and not in order. It took some detective work. The pattern pieces were all included, but did not fit together properly. The garment was difficult to assemble. The neckline is supposed to be sweetheart, but came out round.
#LD-2-EWD - Emily Wyant Dress
Rachael Franklin - Recommended
This dress turned out very pretty, once all of the fitting was done! I found that this pattern ran large; I had to take a least an inch in on the sides as well as an inch at the front. Be warned that if you order by your bust size, you will have to alter it. Other than that, the dress is gorgeous. The instructions say to just cut 45" wide panels for the skirt, as long as you want them, and pleat or gather them onto the waistband. It works fabulously and you don't have to mess with shaped skirts or skirt patterns. I use this method for all of my skirts now. The only other things that I changed was to line the sleeve jockeys (makes them stand out better and you don't need a sleeve crinoline) and to make the cuffs longer (I doubled the length).
#LD-5-PTD - Polonaise Traveling Dress
Connie Picard - Recommended
This dress looks really pretty on the illustration but should definatley be cut out and put together using scap material BEFORE cutting the material you plan to use for your final dress. I also recommend marking the fabric pieces with something to keep track of each piece because it gets a bit confusing when trying to get everything pieced together properly due to the fact her directions are very vague.
There is close to 2 pages of directions for making piping but there is only approximatly 2 paragraphs of directions for actually piecing together the dress itself, which may be a problem if you aren't experienced in making period garmets.
The pattern pieces are a bit off so some adjusting will need to be done during fitting. She also has some unusual pleating included in the pattern but these can be omitted but cutting on the second set of lines. I did the pleating and the end result is satisfactory and this gives a little more fullness in the waist and hip area. The sleeves are simple and look nice with the cuff pattern that is included. I omitted the collar and used piping instead.
All in all, I would recommend giving this pattern a try, but again, make a dry run using scrap material before cutting any expensive material.
#LD-7-DDL - Dinner Dress with Lapels c. 1860
Patricia Cannata - Recommended for sewers with intermediate experience.
The instructions were clear and in order. This gown is easy to make.
#LD-14-CD - The Constance Dress
Jessica Daniels - Highly Recommended
This dress is my absolute favorite for reenactments. I have one that is just about worn to death and have another cut out, ready for the machine. It works easily, whether done by machine or by hand, and allows for bits of customization here and there. All in all, this dress is not too difficult to make, works for any size, is very authentic and is just plain wonderful. It is definitely one of my favorite Civil War period patterns to work with. Pictured at right.
Susannah Eanes - Highly Recommended
The Constance Dress is a copy of an original work gown from California c. 1850 or so It is the best and most representative of this type of work gown available that I have found. I have measured and photographed at least five extant gowns from different parts of the US that are almost identical to the Constance Dress. I have made this gown in every size, from 6 to 46. It is one of the most popular gowns I make. The gown looks nice whether you are UltraQueensize or miniscule. It is a front-button gathered bodice with a waist inset piece onto which a cartridge-pleated skirt is set. I have made it in calicoes, homespun cottons, solid wool/linen, & lightweight wool. The shoulder line drops correctly, the waist inset is flattering and, above all, the dress is comfortable to wear! I call it my "sweatsuit," and I wear it with two lightweight petticoats & sensible stays. It is the one thing I come home & crawl into when I've had a bad day. I love it.
#LG-1-MG - Medici Girdle with Sash c. 1865
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
The pattern pieces and directions are mostly self-evident. If I make up this pattern again, I will use something stiffer than cardboard for the belt's foundation. The ends of the diamond-shaped part in the front of the girdle keep bending as I wear it.
#LRH-1-SK - Riding Habit Skirt
Christine James - Highly Recommended
Very straightforward and easy. Good, clear instructions. The skirt has a nice sweep to the train which could easily adapt to an Edwardian skirt. Christine is wearing the skirt in these photos. The handsome fellow with her is Nino, a Peruvian Passo. Shown in the pictures on the right.
Maggie Herlensky
I found the riding habit skirt fairly simple to assemble. I added the wrist strap for ease of walking as per the instructions. It hangs nicely in the sidesaddle, just as in the pattern illustration.
#LRH-3-CJ - Corded Jacket
Christine James - Highly Recommended
This pattern is very well put together. The instructions are complete and easy to understand. I made this as a riding jacket and used a different sleeve treatment. This is a versatile pattern. It's a classic design and could be used for other occasions or periods depending on the fabric and trim. Pictured at right.
Maggie Herlensky
I found the Corded Jacket easy to assemble and it turned out lovely. Adding the decorative trim was time-consuming and I found it easier to hand stitch it than to try to machine stitch it in place. I am an intermediate seamstress.
#LT-2-LFB - Blouse from the Late 1850's
Trystan L. Bass - Recommended for beginners.
This pattern is much simpler than it looks. The front has a lot of loose smocking, but the instructions make sense. It's actually quite easy and makes into a pretty blouse. Trystan is wearing the blouse in the photo on the right.
#LU-HPE-2 - Elliptical Hoop - 1862 to 1865
Frances Grimble
It does not really provide the 1860's triangular silhouette. It tends to shape itself round.
#LW-7-MB - Muslin Body c.1857
Lisa Dyrke - Highly Recommended
This pattern has clear directions, is well marked, and it will add a nice option to your summer wardrobe. I purchased the small size (8 - 10) and had no difficulty making it into a size 14 by adding to the side seams. The fancy collar treatment is made up of two separate pieces (don't get them confused) and you will need a dress form to get the proper collar placement around the shoulders and neckline. I moved the location of the front bow and shortened the basque a wee bit.
LW-11-FF2 - Fitted Fichu
Cathy Raymond - Not Recommended
You'd think that a shawl-like garment would be easy to construct. I never did figure out how this one was supposed to work. Eventually, I gave up. I simply added lace to my ballgown bodice instead of sewing a fichu to wear over it.
#YLD-1-ED - Young Ladies' Evening Dress c. 1864
Jessica Daniels - Highly Recommended
Even though my mother made this for me, I watched/helped her put it together. The skirt went together without a problem, the bodice was easy to fit, sleeves worked beautifully - all in all, the basics of the dress are very easy and not all too time consuming. The ruffles, my mother did by hand, which was fairly simple but took a long time. Aside from the amount of time that one can put into this dress, it's very easy and I would say you don't have to be an experienced seamstress to make this lovely ballgown, just so long as you follow the instructions, which are very clear, in-depth and include helpful drawings along the way. Pictured at right.
Jana Keeler - Highly Recommended
I only made the skirt from this pattern. It was easy, attractive, and the instructions were accurate.