The Great Pattern Review
Folkwear
Sara Meane
Folkwear patterns don't tend to use interfacing much (if at all); I've ended up adding it as necessary. The fit varies between styles, so measure carefully before you cut.
#101 - Gaza Dress
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
Very simple. Perfect for beginners. Can easily be embellished for a wide variety of ethnic, fantasy or science fiction looks.
Danine Cozzens - Highly Recommended
This is a simple pattern and good for dramatic embellishment. Excellent for beginners.
Michelle Harrison
I made the Gaza Dress and had difficulty following the directions for the side panels. I eventually got them right, but my fabric is too scratchy to really make this dress enjoyable to wear.
Margaret DeLap - Highly Recommended
Very easy to make, although I couldn't sew the side seams by machine all the way and had to finish under the arms by hand.
#104 - Egyptian Shirt
Cathy Raymond - Recommended
I made this one up for my husband. I even succeeded in sewing on soutache trim using some of the optional traditional patterns. A beginner would do quite well with this pattern.
#108 - Turkish Dancer
Jennifer Dyer - Recommended
I made the full-length enteri to wear under a purchased vest out of a semi-sheer linen. It was very easy to make. I left out the darts. I opted to only use binding (that I made from the same fabric) around the neck, and hemmed everything else. I skipped the buttons since my fitted vest was tight enough to hold the enteri together--the open front seam creates a nice 'peek-a-boo' down my belly for dancing! Plenty of room in the shoulders for full range of motion. Pictured at right.
Frannie Germeshausen - Recommended
The Entari and Jacket were easy. I love the long drippy sleeves on the Entari. The jacket is fully lined and the edges bound with bias tape, so it's reversible and has a lovely degree of finish. The vest was a bit harder because I made it in fake fur. The pile on the fur wasn't much thicker than a crushed velvet, so it actually went together beautifully. However, the nap of the fur made it hard to apply the bias tape binding. The fur kept pushing the bias tape off the edge of the fabric, so I ended up basting and re-doing some sections several times. This might happen with any fabric with a nap (e.g. crushed velvet). The vest is cute - very "Pebbles."
#111 - Nepali Blouse
Wednesday Sanchez - Recommended
I made the Nepali Blouse, the open version (without the top ties) in a red linen. Cutting the pattern was no problem. Everything was marked clearly. I didn't have any problems until I got to attaching the front facing (piece C) It doesn't say that you should repeat the process on the right side, but I figured that out. Also, since I made the open version, now that I look at it, piece C should be wider. When it's worn open, you see the edge of the piece and doesn't have a nice finished look. Perhaps make the front piece lined? The collar went on beautifully and has a nice finished look. The gussets went in fine. When I put the sleeves in the armholes, I didn't have any extra material to make it gathered, so they ended up being flat at the shoulder cap. It said the sleeves taper and fit close below the elbow, but I had to tailor them, or they would have been loose. When looking at the finished blouse, (if you look at the 2nd and 3rd pictures) the overlapping sides don't match up. I don't know if that's because of the way I'm shaped or the pattern. It wouldn't be too hard to fix. I loved the pattern and if I made it again I would use a heavy fabric, line it and wear it as a jacket. I would also suggest to change the drawing on the front to match what the blouse actually looks like. (My open collared version doesn't look anything like the drawing on the front of the pattern.) Other than the sleeves not being gathered and piece C should be wider for the open collared version, I was very happy with this pattern. I liked the notes about the blouse and the types and colors of material to use. I appreciate the opportunity to participate in the new pattern review and I'm VERY happy to see the larger sizes included!
#113 - Japanese Kimono
Maura Burns - Highly Recommended
This pattern is one of my standbys. Admittedly it's hard to screw up a pattern made mostly of rectilinear shapes, but when you don't feel like drafting, this works very well. I've made lined and unlined versions in silk, cotton and synthetics for historical and fantasy anime costumes; all with great success. I don't bother with the staggered seam lines; they are authentic, but authentic kimono fabric is a 13" wide bolt, and if you are cutting your pieces from a wider piece of fabric, there's no need to include extra width you're just going to lose in the seam allowance anyway. Note that this is a pattern for a Yukata, which is an unlined, ankle-length garment (not even really considered a kimono) worn to summer festivals. To alter this for a proper kimono, you will need to lengthen the pieces considerably (for a woman), add lining(s) and probably alter the sleeves (length and width) depending on the effect you want. These are extremely simple adjustments. Pictured at right.
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
I made it quilted and added appliqués on top. It was not hard and looks great. This is another garment that is ideal for fancy embellishment.
#114 - Chinese Jacket
Maura Burns - Recommended
I made this up in fingertip length with short sleeves for a fantasy Chinese-inspired outfit. I used a slippery silk charmeuse for the outer layer and a dupioni for the lining, with more dupioni for the facings and purchased bias tape for the piping. It went together beautifully, although the charmeuse bagged a little bit after sewing, even after hanging for a few days. The sizing seems to run large; I normally wear a pattern size 14, made the jacket up in a medium size, and find that it's sufficiently baggy and shapeless that I don't like to wear it without a sash. The shapelessness is intentional, but I don't think the bagginess is. Pictured on the left.
Greta de Groat - Recommended
I decided to complicate matters by making the asymmetrical front jacket in the longer length (in 30 in wide fabric). Somehow I guessed correctly and it came out all right, but I had to mix and match the facing pieces. With the side front closing, you have to be very careful with the many pieces that go into the facing to make sure you cut them out the right direction. Follow carefully the pattern layouts and instructions and they will come out ok.
I did not include the lining as instructed, but did make a removable fleece lining (which I'm not wearing in the picture). This makes it a bit tight under the arms and around the upper chest, so for a bulky lining one should probably go up a size or otherwise adjust. The sleeves are a bit shorter than I would have liked. Had I measured beforehand it would have been easily remedied since the sleeves are made up in several parts and it would be easy to lengthen any of the pieces. Made up in a stiff fabric like the brocade I used, it does come out shaped rather like a Christmas tree, but I imagine in a softer fabric it would drape nicely. Pictured on the right.
#116 - Shirts of Russia & Ukraine
Philip Rayment - Highly Recommended
Easy. The only curved seam is in the collar. Went together quickly. Great for beginners.
#118 - Tibetan Panel Coat
Ellie Farrell - Recommended
Pretty simple. No fitting. Everything is sewn in straight lines.
#119 - Sarouelles
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
I made the two women's versions of these pants. Simple. They are supposed to have baggy fit. One of the designs has a panel across the front; this pair is a little harder to make. You have to adjust the panel carefully so that it has a proper placement. You must pin and check, and re-pin and check again until you get it right. Time consuming.
Maura Burns - Recommended
These are another standby. The African Pants are simple, gusseted, straight-leg pants that are comfortable, fast, easy to make, and go very well with fantasy or peasant costumes when you just need a pair of pants, nothing fancy.
Frannie Germeshausen - Highly Recommended
Once you get your head around the gusset idea, they're super easy and comfortable. The African Pants took about a hour!
#122 - Hong Kong Cheongsam
Betsy Hanes Perry - Not Recommended
I took this pattern to a beach house with me. Three generations of seamstresses (my mother, my grandmother and myself) could not make the muslin fit me at the bodice. I'm not a particularly large woman. The bodice of this Cheongsam is cut for a very flat-chested silhouette. There is no obvious way to increase the garment to accommodate Western breasts. A kimono in-one cut is suitable for a loose garment but, fails utterly to work for a tightly fitted garment such as this. A couple of years after failing to make the Folkwear Cheongsam, I bought a second-hand Cheongsam for my slender teenage daughter; it had bust darts.
#123 - Austrian Dirndl
Lisa Swehla - Not Recommended
This pattern is so unlike the design of traditional dirndls that I don't know why one would bother with it. There should be three back pieces where there is one. I liked the under-blouse. The apron is easy. There is a lovely bunch of information on dirndl lore included. I liked that. It's too bad the garment was so wretched that I was loathe to finish it for Goodwill!
#124 - Bolivian Milkmaid's Jacket
Lisa Swehla - Recommended
The best Folkwear pattern I've sewn to date. I did not follow the instructions entirely. I thought my lining method was more sensible. Overall, it's a nice pattern drafting for an hourglass figure.
Margaret DeLap - Recommended
I made the stitched-down sleeves. Tedious, but everything works. This looks a bit like an early 1830s bodice, with the somewhat high waist and huge sleeves.
#126 - Vests from Greece and Poland
Jan Price - Highly Recommended for beginners.
I used the laced-up Polish vest for two Renaissance bodices. It's very easy. In the photo on the left, Jan (far right) is wearing one of the vests and Jana Keeler (far left) is wearing the other.
Cathy Raymond - Highly Recommended
Supremely easy to put together. I used the Polish vest pattern as the foundation for a 17th century dress (yes, I know the waist is too low and the neckline is too high but, this was 10 years ago and there weren't any 17th century patterns available and my drafting skills are minimal). I added sleeves based on a template I got from the book Patterns for Theatrical Costuming and made a basic skirt. I had my costume. Her outfit is pictured on the right.
#128 - Russian Settlers' Dress
Ellie Farrell
It has a tight fit and is not easy to get in and out of.
Jessica Roberts
This pattern is very easy to sew (though it's rightly called a "sarafan" not a "settler's dress"). The only problem is the band at the top of the dress. If you follow to their instructions, you won't be able to get it on and off, especially if you have wide shoulders. Either make the band 1" longer or make some sort of closure at the side (a hook & eye or invisible zipper would work well).
#129 - Japanese Hapi & Haori
Frannie Germeshausen - Recommended
I made the Hapi for my sweetie (in the photo on the right), so I used the Men's Large and didn't have to deal with the different cutting lines. It's all rectangles and straight lines - easy!
Margaret DeLap - Recommended
I made the Hapi. It's all rectangular pieces. Unfortunately, to save paper or something the instructions require that not all seam allowances are the same width for all sizes. I'd suggest cutting the pieces so that they are, thereby avoiding marking the seam lines.
#131 - Tibetan Chupa
Linda D. Wenzelburger - Recommended
I made both the chupa and the skirt (which is an adaptation of the chupa, not a traditional garment according to the info in the pattern). They are both extremely comfortable to wear. This is not a difficult pattern to sew, but I would not recommend it to a beginner. Follow the instructions and it will all come together. I used a mid-weight cotton sateen. While the pattern suggests denim and corduroy. If you choose to use these heavier fabrics, you may want to consider a lighter weight fabric for the facings and revise the construction of the ties. Even with the darts, this is a loose fitting garment. If you want a close fitting bodice on your chupa, and you have the time, make a muslin and refit the darts and check the armhole. The armhole on my chupa is a bit large, but I plan on wearing sweaters under it this winter, so I didn't alter it down.
#133 - Belgian Military Chef's Jacket
Kathleen Crowley - Highly Recommended
I turned this pattern into a bellhop jacket of red wool. Except for making sure that the piping didn't make the bib too bulky (it was a very thin cording that I used), it went together well. I cut the whole jacket a little shorter (about an inch) and took out the point in the back. I also eliminated the cuff for a cleaner line and added black piping around the collar and bib. I adjusted the pattern a bit at the side and back seams to fit, but I think it would go together pretty well for someone who has good sewing skills. The jacket wasn't actually made for the person wearing it in the picture - but its such a cute photo and it still fits well!
#134 - South Asian Tops & Wraps
Loren Dearborn
I only made the choli. It was simple; no problems at all. Loren is wearing the choli under a sari in the photo to the right.
Margaret DeLap - Highly Recommended
I made the Thai blouse. I had fabric with nap, so I split the pattern along the shoulder line (conveniently marked) to get a separate front and back. I also added a lining. The shape of the pieces is wasteful of the fabric.
Lainey Drake - Recommended
I've made the choli top a number of times. The first one was true to the pattern (the purple choli). I didn't like the binding, so in subsequent makings I redesigned it with a neck/front facing, and fully lined the bottom section. I used Indian silks for the purple, coral and fuchsia versions, and liquid gold for a gold one. Went together fairly easily. I recommend the pattern as being very authentic. All the cholis I've seen/bought to wear with sari's are almost identical in style. This pattern can be used for belly dance, depending on which style you prefer. Lainey's Indian silk cholis are pictured at right.
#137 - Australian Drover's Coat
Sara Maene - Recommended
I've made this up in black denim with with a hot pink lining and brass snaps. It's big and comfortable and not too difficult to make. Hammering all those snaps takes time and patience. I added a second hand-warmer layer to the front pockets, which comes in handy on those really cold days. I lined the pockets, front flap, and cape as well. It looks good on both men and women.
#139 - Vietnamese Ao Dai
Eleanor Farrell - Recommended
As with most Folkwear patterns I've used, the instructions are generally very clear. The only confusion I had was how to lay out the third facing piece for the top opening. I left this until I was ready to attach it, to make sure I cut it out properly.
As this is designed to be a fitted garment, any alterations (length, etc.) need to be made before cutting. Like many people (sigh), I'm not a perfect size -- I needed to shorten the top, pants and sleeve lengths (the sleeves have elbow darts), but wanted the extra space for waist and hips. The pants have a flat waistband with zipper; however, since these do not show under the long top, a different pattern, with a gathered waistband, could be used if preferred.
The top is asymmetric, with a side closure traditional for Chinese garments. This means that it's more difficult to check fitting until the entire garment (including the sleeves, one of which is sewn into the facing) is sewn together. If a snug fit is desired, it's probably a good idea to make a muslin first. There are center darts on both the front and back which can be also be adjusted to fit. I'm really happy with the final garment and think it would be attractive on almost anyone.
#140 - Flamenco Dress and Practice Skirt
Sue Toorans - Recommended
I chose to make the practice skirt with three rows of ruffles and the optional fabric rose. The only modifications I made were for fit at the waist. The pattern as drafted goes together very well. All the pieces fit where the direction say they should. This is something I really like in a pattern. Any same person would just serge the edges of all the ruffles. I turned the edges twice. That bottom ruffle took forever to sew (about four hours). Basing my idea of how the skirt should turn out on the picture, I was very surprised how short the skirt is in front. I'm not tall (5'3") but, the front of the skirt is just above my knees. The back has (as expected) a slight train. Other than the front length, this pattern had no surprises and went together quite easily. I like the way the full circle (rather than shirred strip) ruffles look. The directions say that this type of ruffle has more life. It sure does.
Christina Castellanos - Not Recommended
I would NOT recommend this pattern to anyone who is attemping to make a authentic flamenco dress. I read this review, and the back of the skirt looked great. But they should of shown the front side of the skirt. It's short, like to the knees. This skirt is not worn that way for dance. The dress is what I made. I spent over a hundred dollars on fabric, spent many hours working on it, lot's of frustration. As I worked I kept saying to myself "this can't be right". When I completed my work I realized that was not the dress on the package. The dress on the package is beautiful and is suitable for flamenco. However the dress that is the actual result of the pattern is far from anything that would be used for flamenco, it is in fact suitable for some sort of latin ballroom dance or even tango dance. NOT flamenco. Anyone who purchases this pattern and intends to use it for flamenco is going to be grandly dissapointed. I sent an email to folkwear informing them of their out right false advertisement and misleading representation of the dress pattern. I have yet to hear back from them and doubt I will.
Kathleen Crowley
I made this dress for a 6 ft tall man, so there were some adjustments to make in the pattern. I added three more rows of ruffles and added 3/4 length sleeves with a bias ruffle. I made the front shorter so he could show some leg. The whole thing is made out of a flocked velvet and it is lined throughout except for the sleeves. I thought the pattern was pretty basic and simple, but that the ruffle would prove too challenging to a beginner. I find that most finished garments don't usually look like they do on the jacket when completed, so I was pretty pleased with the results. I think this dress could definitely be used for a flamenco piece, but may not be totally authentic. I serged the ruffle hem and saved a whole lot of time!
#141 - Korean Han-Bok
Maura Burns
I made the chima skirt and juhgori jacket to replicate an outfit worn by the character Seung Mina in the video game Soul Calibur 2. I used a silk/rayon brocade with a light cotton lining for the jacket and a silk georgette for the skirt. The jacket went together with minimal difficulty; however, if you are at all large- or low-busted, you may find you need to alter the front in order for it to hang correctly. Despite stay-stitching, the lower edge stretched a bit. With the skirt, I followed the pleating template for my size as closely as possible, but found that the finished pleated piece was a good 8" shorter than the band. I don't know if this was an error on my part or the pattern. I ended up gathering the skirt onto the band instead; my fabric was very soft, so it made little obvious difference in the shape.
There is little in the pattern notes to tell you how the hanbok is traditionally worn, what the usual undergarments are like, etc., so if you're going for an authentic Korean look, be prepared to do some additional research. I'm pleased with the finished product.
#150 - Hungarian Szur
Janet Croft - Recommended
Easy to make -- simple shapes that go together quickly. Only problem -- one size does not fit all. I made it for a tall young man, and had to add cuffs, plus it was much shorter than I had intended. Make a muslin or compare measurements first, then be prepared to adjust the front lapels. I made it in brocade with fake fur collar and cuffs, and a big belt buckle for the clasp.
#151 - Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Lyssa Kaehler
This pattern worked out great in the end, though the instructions were confusing. Those who like origami, or simply detest curved seams, will be very happy with this pattern. I used silk brocade, lined with cotton sheeting, to get the heavier, richer look of historical garments, though I did hem them to just above the instep instead of dragging the floor behind him. The instructions for the hakama (pleated pants) were relatively easy to follow, though I would not recommend this pattern for beginners. The pleating instructions are confusing.
The kataginu (vest) was more difficult to figure out...more origami. The instructions have some vague suggestions for interfacing and boning, but this garment will look terrible if it is not lined as well. I used heavy interfacing throughout the back and shoulders, and may add millinery wire to the edges if they get droopy.
End result: One very happy husband (who has often suffered from costume envy).
#152 - Scottish Kilts
Jesse Wiebe - Recommended
I just did the kilt, not the jacket or the knitting stuff. Overall I would definitely recommend this pattern, it's much better than the Simplicity versions of kilts as well as being more traditional, but there are a few things I discovered missing in the instructions. I found them the hard way, and since I'm still pretty much a beginner at sewing, they weren't fun to fix. Here's my changes:
When measuring and planning for the kilt, add about an inch to your measurements, else it will come out too small. I had to add in extra pleats last minute, and since I'd already cut out the insides, it meant patching some of them.
When it says to cut out the excess fabric in each pleat, cut out all of them EXCEPT the first pleat from the overapron and the reversed pleat by the underapron.
For my measurements (30" waist) I had to put the belt loops closer together than they said in the pattern.
I put darts in the front aprons (because I'm female, and it wouldn't have fit otherwise) and did a double fringe along the outer apron, but those were both on purpose. I was living far away from a sewing machine at the time, so mine is entirely hand-stitched. It's possible to take shortcuts with a machine in some places, I think. But it's nice to be able to say I made that with no machine. I usedbraeraich (13oz/yd) muted Campbell tartan. The kilt really does hang nicely, but it was extremely windy that day and I couldn't get it to lie flat. In fact I very nearly mooned the neighbors; always a danger when wearing a kilt.
#201 - Prairie Dress
Margaret DeLap - Highly Recommended
Very sturdy construction, and very comfortable. This is a full dress, including around the waist, so if you don't wear petticoats sufficient to bell out the skirt you may look wide there.
#202 - Victorian Shirt
Philip Rayment - Recommended
It has curved seams and a separate collar. The curves require flat felling. It's a bit of an effort for a beginner, but go slowly and it should turn out well.
#203 - Edwardian Underthings
Ellie Farrell
I made the camisole, but did not do any tucking. The instructions are accurate.
Sheri Jurnecka - Highly Recommended
I made the Camisole. It looks exactly like the illustration. The instructions and sizing were complete and accurate. I didn't have any problems.
Christine Stout - Highly Recommended
I have made the petticoat twice and have enjoyed using it, and the pattern. The first time I made it from a king bed sheet, and it lasted 15 years. I originally used a drawstring at the waistband, but found it uncomfortable, so I used elastic hand-tacked at the seams and at the casing openings, and then used a hook/eye for a closure. The second one I made from muslin and used the same elastic with hook/eye closure method. This petticoat, made from either the bed sheet or the muslin, is very comfortable in any season of the year and works as perfectly under gauzy broomstick skirts as it does under a heavier-fabric skirt, adding just the right amount of fullness at the bottom.
#204 - Missouri River Boatman's Shirt
Philip Rayment - Highly Recommended
Straightforward. No curved seams. Can be easily adapted for several periods. A frill can be added to the front opening. Go slowly when you are inserting the gussets.
#205 - Gibson Girl Blouse
Margaret DeLap - Highly Recommended
Mostly simple to make, although for the back fastening there are not really any directions to speak of. I extended the waist where the waist ties might have pulled a button out. I was also able to cut the blouse with 1/2 yd. less fabric than specified, 2 yards instead of 2 1/2 because I accidentally didn't buy enough.
Janet Canning - Recommended
Since I knew the GBACG Gibson Girl picnic was planned for 2004, it gave me an excuse to try this pattern out after eying it for years. I knocked together a basic version in two days sewing, which is about 4 hours for me. I am slow these days with hands. This pattern is easier to follow that the Folkwear Shirtwaist/School Mistress pattern. This one is a very good cut for the time period; however, it is not sized past size 16. The Folkwear patterns are being revamped slowly with more modern sizing. I found the Large size fairly roomy, and of course the pigeon front allows for some room. Also, you may wish to lengthen both versions (modern and repro) as Folkwear runs to fit 5'7". I find that even at 5'7-1/5" in height, I always have to add a few inches to their blouses. The yardage requirement is minimal and it's a great pattern for basic fit and the look of the period. I am now embarking on the optional insert lacing version and if I don't kill myself...okay, it means doing insert lacing...(concentration involved), I will wear it to the picnic.
#207 - Kinsale Cloak
Tara Malsberger - Recommended, except for one note.
I felt the hood was not deep enough, so when/if I remake this I'd make that modification. Also, the collar is a bit droopy to wear without the hood; I'd add more interfacing to make it stand up better. Try making a mockup out of a similar weight cloth before you cut into your fashion fabric. I used heavy, full velvet, so that might be part of my 'droopy' problem.
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
Difficult bit of hand sewing in the collar, but a beginner could handle it. I like the removable hood. I think the cloak looks good on men and women.
Janet Canning - Recommended
The instructions are very good for learning cartridge pleating. Be sure to follow the instructions about hanging the fabric overnight.
Kathleen Crowley - Highly Recommended
The pattern was easy. It's made with straight seams. Use a medium weight interfacing in the collar.
Ellie Farrell - Not Recommended
I didn't like the hood of the cloak. It was huge and looked stupid. (Ellie is petite.)
Philip Rayment
You may have some hard hand sewing in your collar if your fabric is thick wool. All the layers may not fit into your machine.
Sara Maene
A very useful garment. This is a heavy, dramatic, unisex cloak that is wonderful to wear. Be careful with going overboard on the width, though, or you may not be able to attach the whole thing to the collar. I used a medium weight spongy wool and my machine had an awful time with all those gathers. The optional cord around the neck is a nice touch. I had two problems with this pattern: (1) the neck opening wasn't large enough on me (I'm 5'8" and proportionately large) and (2) I have a big head and the hood doesn't have enough fabric in it to drape properly over my head.
Laura Jensen
Contrary to the appearance of the illustration on the cover, the cloak does not have much of a yoke. The pattern is one size; the collar is MUCH too large and jumbly for a smaller person. The cloak is difficult to wear for this reason. I interfaced the collar stand with hair canvas and flannel and interlined the outer collar as well. In addition, I lined the collar stand with cotton and used twill tape inside the seam lines on the collar. It was very sturdy. Instead of following the instructions for gathering the cape directly into the collar seam, I cartridge pleated the cape fabric onto a length of cotton tape and sewed this tape by machine into the collar seam.
Annette Stubbs - Recommended
Beginning level (for thinner fabrics); Intermediate level (for heavier fabrics). I found this to be a very flattering cloak and it lends itself to many different events. I chose a heavy wool with a flannel lining, so it took me quite awhile to piece the collar and hood together. The instructions for the collar and hood were a little tricky, but I perservered. But, I am very happy with the result.
#208 - Kinsale Cloak for Young Maidens
Leigh Ann Hildebrand - Recommended
Exactly like Folkwear 207, sized down for children. It would probably work well for petites, too. It goes together just like the adult size, so all the same comments apply -- thick fabric can be difficult to work with, hood can look funny, etc. Even if you don't like the hood up, I suggest making it, because it creates an over cape/caplet effect when worn down instead up up as a hood. That can be particularly attractive if you're using unusual or contrasting lining. The cape I made for my daughter is made with hood sewn into the collar instead of as a separate button-on element.
#209 - Walking Skirt
Frannie Germeshausen - Highly Recommended
This was easy to make (one afternoon, basically), though I thought the placket was surprisingly fiddly. Instead of making buttonhole, I used a heavy-duty hook and eye. I made it in a lightweight wool crepe, and it both fits and falls well. I like the sweep in the center back of the skirt. Very graceful. Frannie's skirt is pictured on the right.
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
Very easy. Great for beginners. The skirt is not lined; it's just gathered into the waistband and closes with one button. Looks just like the illustration.
Danine Cozzens - Highly Recommended
A wardrobe mainstay. The pattern is simple, reliable and successful. I made the skirt with a flat lining and a 12" poplin hem facing. I copied historical garments I have examined.
Cornelia Tegart - Highly Recommended
The directions were easy to follow. A beginner would be able to undertake this project quite handily. I also used the pattern as a petticoat. It is essential to wear a petticoat; the hangs and wears much better. I attached 4 inches of lace at the hem of the skirt. I used a polyester taffeta for the skirt and 100% cotton for the petticoat. I sewed tooling 8 inches up from the hem to give the petticoat a bit more body. I also attached 4 inches of ruffle to the hem of the petticoat and let about an inch hand below the skirt. It turned out very well.
#210 - Armistice Blouse
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
I made this up twice and it turned out well both times. I was not able to do the drawn-thread work. I followed the instructions carefully and failed. Loren's Blouse is pictured on the right.
Sara Maene - Recommended
Overall a good pattern. The fit of the front can be a bit fiddly. Even though it is unfitted through the chest, the weight of the middle panel and the buttons on one side can cause the front to hang heavily. The armhole was just a touch tight on me (but, that's a common problem for me). You may want to enlarge the collar if you wear a larger size and also lengthen below the waist to keep the blouse tucked in. This is a sleek, yet feminine design.
Ellie Farrell - Not Recommended
The pattern is too large and the sleeves much too long for a smaller person.
Margaret DeLap - Not Recommended
I have short arms, but the sleeves were inches too long for me (normally it's by about 1/2-3/4"). I don't think there were enough different gradations in the collar size to fit all sizes well.
#213 - Child's Prairie Dress & Pinafore
Denisen Hartlove - Recommended with reservations.
This pattern produces a reasonably period-accurate mid-19th century child's dress and pinafore. In researching the look we were after for 2-year old Katie's picnic dress, we looked at several sources, including photographs of children from the era, fashion plates from Godey's Lady's Book, and paintings (most particularly, John Singer Sargant's Daughters of Edward Darley Boit). The Folkwear folks claim they took the pinafore pattern straight off of an 1874 fashion plate (which they unfortunately no longer have in their files - go figure!). There are some glitches to be found, though if you have some sewing experience, a good dose of patience, and a bottle of decent Chardonnay, the whole affair should go together without too many problems.
The pattern markings do not always match up - use your own good sense (and a glass or two of that Chardonnay) to use the notches and dots as guides for which pieces go where - don't worry too much about actually having them meet. The dress itself is a somewhat complicated affair. Notches can also be confusing, as one pattern piece is used for both front and back panels, and accordingly, one notch is a "mystery" notch, and doesn't meet with anything. Nearly scared me to death at 11 at night, but a(nother) glass of Chardonnay set things right. The shoulder and collar assembly is composed of 4 separate pattern pieces - there's the yoke, the collar band, the collar itself and the collar ruffle which I then trimmed with lace - it's an illness - I can't help myself!). I'd hoped for something a little simpler, but really it would have been fine if the collar band and the collar had shown any semblance of fitting together. I took a 2-day break (hangover), obsessed day and night, and then finally, fed up, chopped half an inch off each of the band's ends, eased like mad, and pressed the living daylights out of the thing! But, I thought it came out beautifully in the end.
As for the pinafore, well... it went together beautifully. The only trick was that the front and the back are tucked (my first try at tucks, and a wild success, if I do say so myself). The pattern directions say that the pleats fall to the left. The picture on the pattern directions shows them falling to the right. And the pattern markings themselves show the pleats falling in opposite directions, depending on which side of the pinafore front you're working on. More wine consumed. Also used an eraser, to remove my pattern markings, figure out a solution and enact same. Anyways, it was a simple enough garment (and the rest of the instructions were clear), so it could be figured out. And when we made it in a fine cotton lawn, I thought the pinafore was just beautiful! Oh, one other thing: there's a lot of topstitching on this garment. If you don't like topstitching on your period clothing (I've seen photos of 19th century clothes with some topstitching, so it is period, but still...), plan on a lot of hand sewing. And several glasses of Chardonnay.
#214 - 1927 Tea Frock
Kristin Eckland - Recommended
This is a great versatile pattern, that I've made several ways: sleeves, sleeveless, smocked, etc. I get pretty impatient with complicated/or confusing directions but, this pattern was fairly straight forward. Folkwear also includes some inserts talking about the era-specific colors and prints and a guide for hand-smocking. I made one version using machine smocking (which was a bit of a mess) but, mainly because I had problems with thread breakage, not the pattern. It's a good pattern to use as a general guide too. In this photo, I changed the skirt from straight hem to handkerchief, lengthened the bodice by 2 inches (for a more exaggerated look) and cut the yoke on the bias, so I wouldn't have to fuss with fasteners.. I know that sounds like a great bit of alterations but, I'm really not all that much of an amateur seamstress. (I have made three legged pants and other sewing atrocities.) I kind of think it just shows how easy this pattern is to work with ( now Folkwear's tango dress pattern is another story entirely..). Kristin's Frock is pictured on the right.
Sara Maene
I've only made up the non-smocked version with the cap sleeves but, it went together well. As with many Folkwear patterns, this has a collar stitched over bias binding at the neck. Be careful at the ends of the collar to make sure you don't get a lumpy join. I added a few more snaps at the side placket to avoid gapping.
#215 - Empire Dress
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
I made the modern version with the elastic and liked the result. This pattern has small/medium/large bra cup sizes. It can look good on women of very different shapes and sizes. A point to note is that one of the pattern pieces is used twice; for the front and again for the side. Loren is wearing the dress in the photo to the right.
Sorrel Smith - Recommended
Very nice pattern. I am a C-cup; the Medium size fit me well. Warning! If you EVER plan to dance in this dress, beware of the train! It is not long enough, nor is it the correct shape, to pick up and drape gracefully or to tack to the back of the dress with a train loop. Don't spend a miserable evening at the ball having your train stepped on all night and maybe even torn. Forgo the train altogether or drape a panel from the center back of the raised waistline. Make it just the length that will drape nicely over your arm when dancing.
Janet Canning
I researched the period and believe this pattern is a modernized Regency dress construction. I found the bodice took considerable fussing to get a correct fit.
Danine Cozzens
Be sure to carefully check the length of the shoulder piece. It may be too short unless you are very high breasted or are wearing a Regency corset.
Sally Norton - Recommended
This was the second Regency dress I made. The first was the (now out of print) Pegee of Williamsburg pattern (which is a wonderful pattern and highly recommended -- it's worth the hunt to find it). I didn't have any problems with this Folkwear pattern. Due to time constraints, I made it with elastic. The dress has been worn (and cleaned) several times and still looks nice. I wasn't planning to dance in it so, I made it with the train; it does float nicely on stairs (I made the dress in a very lightweight silk) but I do have to watch as other people get close to me (and risk them stepping on my train). It's very comfortable. Sally's dress is pictured on the left.
Suvine Grasmick - Recommended
This was very easy, I made it out of hemp muslin and I chose the longer sleeves and gathered back.This is a larger size for me but it works. I had no problems, the elastic around the neck was easy, but did they have elastic in 1800-1812? Suvine's dress is pictured on the right.
Amanda Jakubowski
This pattern was okay. The bodice has too many fiddly little pieces. I made mine out of silk and it frayed and frayed due to all the little seams. It does not come out looking like the picture. The dress and the bodice came out a gathered, poufy mess. I like the Simplicity dress (9221) much better.
Emily Reed - Highly Recommended
This was the First thing I ever made and had to alter it quite a bit as I was seven months pregnant. If you are busty and not wearing a corset you may need to raise the neckline. I also had to add an extra panel in the skirt front but I forgot to add a little extra length to accommodate my Belly. It looks very nice with a double ruffle at the hem. It was very easy and a great confidence booster for the beginner. I am extremely pleased with how it turned out and am sure to make it again.
#216 - Schoolmistress' Shirtwaist & Skirt
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
Easy pattern to make and easy to scale (if necessary). I cut the front slightly wider and added tucks on either side of the front buttons. I also added a standup collar and cuffs. I left off the waist tie and instead of a tie, took the seam in at the natural waist shaping the blouse. I did this because I intended to wear the blouse on the outside of the skirt (more like a jacket style) rather than tucked into the waistband. Photo to the right.
Eris Weaver - Recommended
The instructions are clear. This went together easily; however, all of the size adjustments on the multi-sized skirt pattern are on only four of the seven gores. If you follow their cutting lines and make a larger skirt, you end up with a teeny center gore and wide side gores. If I make it again, I will adjust the pieces to make the gores even all around. I also agree with the suggestion to widen the waistband. The blouse seemed strange when I was working on it, but ended up looking just like the picture.
Janet Canning
I recommend cutting a wider waistband; it will better hold the blouse tucked in.
Loren Dearborn - Highly Recommended
I made the skirt only. It's a great walking skirt for the period and fits very well.
Teresa Liao
Skirt: Highly Recommended
The skirt was very easy to put together. The directions are clear and the finished skirt is lovely. The only place were the directions kind of fall apart is in the skirt closure. I couldn't find the directions for this. The pattern piece itself is labeled for a snap placement. I ended up closing the skirt with hooks and eyes which worked very well. The only other adjustment I made was widening the skirt waistband.
Shirtwaist: Not Recommended
The shirtwaist, on the other hand, is not recommended. While the pattern goes together well enough (although I found it runs a bit large -- unlike the skirt pattern), there are no pattern pieces for the waist tie and the directions are, basically, "attach". I ended up leaving the tie off for now. The sleeves, however, were nearly a catastrophe. I had decided to take up the extra fabric at the cuff with pin tucks. It wasn't until after I had cut the fabric and spent all that time making the pin tucks that I realized the pattern called for the sleeve seam to run right down the front of the arm. Had I noticed this ahead of time, I would have cut the sleeve so that the seam would match up with the side seam. As it was, I had neither the time nor fabric to make the adjustment, so I had to make do with moving the seam as much as I could towards the underarm with making the sleeve head look too funny. Pictured in the photo on the left.
Lisa Dyrke - Recommended
I created this ensemble when I was in high school, so it wasn't too difficult. Later, I added the lace insertion and shoulder ruffles to spruce it up. Those additions truly gave it an antique look. My only problem was the kick pleat at the back of the skirt. I couldn't get it to hang correctly the first time. It took a lot of fusing to get it right. You will have problems with the pleats over the shoulders if you use a slippery fabric. This pattern works best in a cotton. Pictured in the photo on the right.
#217 - Poet's Shirt
Sheri Jurnecka - Recommended
The gussets are a bit tricky. Follow the instructions carefully. Go slowly. Beginners could handle this. Doug Williams is wearing the shirt made by Sheri in the photo to the right.
Sara Maene - Recommended
A fun, frilly shirt. Working with the gussets is slightly tricky, but not too hairy. The end result is well worth the bother.
Leigh Ann Hildebrand - Recommended
I've made the shirt about a dozen times, for men and women of various sizes. Usually I make the sleeves fuller and move the underarm gusset down (about one-half to one inch on each size) to make it more comfortable for wearers used to set in sleeves. It's also easy to modify the wrist treatment to use elastic or ties. I'd suggest beginning sewers try it first in View A; View B's ruffles can be tricky to manage in some fabrics. In the photo to the left, Leo Schwab is wearing View B (ruffled) with fuller sleeves and wrist ties. Pictured on the left.
Maura Burns
This is a fine pattern if you are lookinf for a period-style shirt. It's cut with no curved lines at all so, in addition to underarm gussets, there are also triangular gussets at each side of the neck, raising the 'little fiddly bits' quotient considerably. I made it in a medium-weight linen, using the View A collar, View B sleeves and narrow facing. I found the fit to be a little tight in the shoulders do to the yoke with the dropped sleeves but, I assume this is meant to be accurate to their model. I do have broad shoulders. The shirt worked up fine and fairly quickly. The neck gussets required some patience to figure out. I'm still not sure I got it right. Pictured on the right.
#218 - Child's Frontier Shirt
Judith Hollenberger - Recommended
This is a fairly simple pattern. I sewed Views B and C (the only difference is the bib shape.) Each shirt took me 2-3 evenings (with a toddler underfoot.) The directions are clear & well illustrated. The historical notes are interesting. Possible gotchas: The neck opening is a faced slit & it can be tricky to get the facing to turn and lay smoothly. At first reading the directions to attach the cuffs to the sleeves sound implausible, but as with other Folkwear patterns I've worked with, if you follow their directions everything turns out nicely. It's quite a nifty way to attach a cuff & it finishes beautifully. Although I'm not a novice sewer, I had never worked with piping & decided to add piping to the yoke, cuffs, and bib. I had a little trouble with seaming the point of the yoke to the shirt back with the piping, but I think if I hadn't used piping or if I had experience with piping it would not have been an issue. The shirts are wonderful! (Please note - the boy in the pictures is only 2 and the shirts are size 4.)
#220 - Garden Party Dress
Lisa Dyrke - Highly Recommended
A dress as delicate and sweet as a tea cake. You will need your lady's maid to do the back buttons, however. I did omit the sleeve cuff and cut down on the sleeve fullness, using the gathered waist variation. To make the skirt hang better in lightweight fabric, I enclosed the hem in a 5" deep facing. I made these adjustments based on an original garment in my collection. Pictured at right.
Frances Grimble - Recommended
Works best if you use a border eyelet fabric, lace insertions, or embroidery. Originals from this era have a lot of decoration, though not much colour contrast. In plain, undecorated fabric this dress can look dull.
Amanda Williams - Recommended
I had to size the pattern up. (I wish Folkwear offered their patterns in a wider range of sizes.) It wasn't difficult to scale; all the pieces are rectangles. It went together easily.
#222 - Vintage Vests
Leigh Ann Hildebrand - Recommended
This pattern is okay with some caveats. I had no trouble with the construction. View B's collar originally seemed to fit oddly, standing away from from body. We've since determined that I had not followed the instructions carefully enough and had not folded/ironed the collar correctly. Since the correction, it fits fine. When I made view B, I skipped the pockets and just attached the welts for show only. I've also made View A. It seems to be sized smaller than view B, probably because of the ease allowed by view B's bias cut. For view A, I made pockets as well, and found they worked fine if the markings are accurately transferred. I've since used this pocket construction on other vests, instead of the non-functional welts. I like the method because any irregularities in the pocket (puckering, for example) are hidden by the pocket welt. Pictured at right.
Ellie Farrell
Just OK. I had to take in the darts more than the markings indicated. I made the short double-breasted vest for women.
Philip Rayment - Not Recommended
I made Vest B. The pattern pieces did not line up at the corners. It's cut on the bias so the fabric can be stretchy. It didn't come out well. I was disappointed with the result.
Mary Brown - Recommended, moderate to experienced sewers only.
There is a problem with the inside front bottom facing. I made this vest twice, the first time one of the didn't fit. My material was stretchy and I put it down to improper cutting of the peice. I checked the pattern and my cut was correct.
On the second vest both of these facings extended lower than the outside bias cut front. The problem has to be with the pattern peice for the lower front facing. I trimmed the extension and sewed the bottom seam. The trimming did not effect the hang of the vest. I also put silk piping (period correct) on the fronts and collar. Pictured at right.
Danine Cozzens - Not Recommended
AAARRRGH! An unfinished garment. Even Adrian Butterfield (who was one of the best tailors in California) said this was trickier than it should be.
Lisa Swehla - Not Recommended
I think something is wrong in the pocket drafting. I'm unclear why this pattern was such a pain. It worked out more through more futzing than anything else.
#224 - Beautiful Dreamer
Kat Crippen - Recommended
This is an easy pattern to put together. There are three big box pleats down the back and a broad "sailor" collar with a ruffle that can be either fabric or lace. Cuffs were a bit of a nuisance to turn as they are all one piece; in the future, I would use a button cuff which would facilitate getting this off and on. Also, I would make one amendments to the front facing: I would stay the front neckline ruffle with a bit of twill tape to keep it from sagging. There is a narrow godet on each side; if your fabric is wide enough, you could probably put the godet pattern piece with the skirt and cut as one to save putting in the extra seam. It is copied from the original, but doesn't seem to have an effect on the design. The originally was probably cut from a narrow fabric and this was a means of extending it. One note of caution: this is a FULL gown and you can get rather tangled up in it in bed - there's a lot of material to deal with! But it is relaxed and romantic. I made mine in a cream-colored cotton flannel sprigged with pink roses.
#226 - Princess Slip
Greta de Groat - Recommended
This was an easy pattern and the bottom ruffle is pretty. I had correctly guessed that would a bit on the loose side, and I found I could easily slip it on over my head without having to have an opening in the back. So I saved myself having to include the placket or (gasp!) zipper. This might not work if you are big busted. But it's worth saving yourself extra work if you baste up the back and try it on before you go to work on the opening.
#227 - Edwardian Bridal Gown
Sheri Jurnecka - Highly Recommended
All of the pleated fabric in the bodice is pleated BEFORE the pattern pieces are cut out. It takes 8 hours to pleat the fabric. Once this is done, the pattern is quite straightforward and goes together very quickly. Looks just like the illustration. It's very flattering. Sheri is wearing the dress in the photo to the left.
Laura Jensen
Do not, repeat NOT, select a fabric with an irregular thread used at the grain if you are planning to make the tucks in the center panels. I used a silk pongee with a slubby weft and used the weft as grain because it was thicker and more conspicuous. This meant that it took me THREE WEEKS of evenings spent cursing the machine, the iron, the fabric, and life in general, to finish the tucked panels. I also extended the circular panels and omitted the ruffle on the bottom. The omission of the ruffle resulted in problems getting an even hem. I also enlarged the sleeve cap slightly and added an organza sleeve head at the sleeve cap.
Jill Silbert - Highly Recommended
This gown is absolutely stunning!!! There are so many options to doing this. Contrary to popular belief, the tucking before cutting took me about 2 hours!! I did the bridal gown with train, and four bridesmaids dresses, and on each one I cut out the lace inserts on just about every piece! It was absolutely breathtaking!! Okay, so that took me a good while, but it was well worth it! There is A LOT of room in this dress, and the sizes run larger than normal, with a 12 being very generous!!! Cut one size smaller and take 1/4 to 1/2 inch seams as needed!!! If you are skimping on the cost of lace, you will be disappointed in the outcome. You need to spend the $$$$ to get the proper lace!!! I did the bridal gown in white (of course), and each of the bridesmaids in pastel blue, pink, yellow, and mint green! Check length BEFORE cutting the skirt pieces as there is NO ADJUSTMENT after cutting, unless you cut the beautiful ruffle. Also, best way to gather the ruffle is the cord method, not gathering stitches!! Cording works a LOT faster!!!! Make your cuffs with buttons for adjustment and your gal with thank you!!! After making the wedding gowns/bridesmaid dresses, I remade this dress (no train) in ALL BLACK without the lace trimming, added additional panels in the skirt to allow it to fit over a hoop for a civil war mourning dress. The gathering on the front panel was absolutely fantastic, and the gal who wore it was so happy with the outcome.
#230 - Model T Duster
Monique Motyl - Recommended
I didn't have any problems with the construction. The finished coat is really good looking and fits well.
Sara Maene - Recommended
This would make a great raincoat. Flattering to most body types.
Laura Jensen - Recommended
Rather than turning under the inside edges of the facing to finish them, I sewed those edges of the facings to the interfacings, right sides together, and turned and pressed the facings. Then, I top-stitched the edges and sewed a zig zag line along the inside edges to encourage the two layers of fabric to act as a single layer. Finally, I did the stay stitching on the facing edge. It's still straightforward to make flat fell seams, because all the curves are gradual.
#231 - Big Sky Riding Skirt
Ellie Farrell - Recommended
Not too difficult and fun to wear.
Jolie Velaquez - Recommended
It's a good pattern. It went together well and looks just like the illustration.
Sherry Willis - Recommended with reservations.
This pattern comes in a nice real paper (not tissue) format which is nice. The instructions were good, although I would recommend this pattern for an intermediate seamstress. The pieces went together wonderfully and it does look like the picture. I especially like the back. My only reservation is that I actually want to ride in this skirt and having the front panel part of the right leg makes it awkward, even with the panel buttoned open. This particular skirt doesn't have a removable panel. It buttons on one side for a skirt and folds back and buttons on the other for culottes. But since the right leg is so much wider than the left (making the panel), it looks a bit strange buttoned open and wants to trip you buttoned closed. I would imagine that considering the oppresiveness of the clothing of that period, however, that what I consider a bit hampering would have seemed like lovely freedom to the women of that time. All in all, a nice pattern. I have decided to change how I made the front and instead of the panel, pleat it to the inside like the back. I've seen similar pleated skirts for the peroid and I think this would look like them and be much easier to ride in. I believe I can use the front panel piece and just attatch it to the front piece and pleat them in. This pattern should be cut according to waist measurement, not hips. P.S. You will be very good at button holes when you are done with this one.
Maggie Herlensky
The directions and pattern pieces were very scary when I opened the package. I followed the directions to the letter and was amazed at how easy it was! And I loved the historical notes included with the pattern. I had to take it in a bit, but everything I make ends up a little big, anyway, so I've come to expect it. Easier to take in than have to start over because it is too small! If you expect to ride sidesaddle in this, make both legs floor length or nearly so. I made mine ankle length. The right leg ends up looking like hot pants, otherwise. I've read that one should make only the right leg longer, but that is a modern myth. We think it looks stupid with one leg longer than the other, so did they.
#232 - Wall Street Blouse & Skirt
Kat Crippen - Recommended
This is an easy pattern with no design problems. The skirt is six-gore with a side zipper. There is some slight seam curving on the lower part of the skirt. The blouse has a yoke in the back, deep cuffs, and a high collar. The collar may be too tall for someone not used to period clothing, although it helps keep your chin up (literally!). In the photo, the skirt is brown/gray flecked tweed; the blouse is white cotton. If I made the skirt again, I think the only thing I would change is to line it just above the flares. On the blouse, the high collar tends to spread and I would add a tab on either side that could be snapped shut and hidden with the tie. This makes a nice, sporty '20s outfit that is not so "period" that it couldn't be worn to the office, etc.
#233 - Glamour Girl Dress
Sheri Jurnecka - Recommended for intermediates.
Pretty easy. I didn't have any problems.
Sara Maene - Highly Recommended
I liked this one so much, I've made it up twice and plan to do it again. Watch the fit through the hips and check your back length; there's no room for back blousing at the waist in this dress. I found than an invisible zipper worked perfectly for the side closing. Looks very glamorous indeed and is very comfortable.
#237 - Tango Dress
Ellie Farrell
It was too long in the torso even though I cut it down. You must pay close attention to the bias, the curves and a rather bizarre collard down the back. The result is worth the effort. It's very pretty and quite flattering.
Sara Maene
Not too bad but, watch the fit through the hips. I made this up in a size 16 (my usual) and the bias stretch through the main skirt panel caused the hip area to be 6" too big. I had to spend several hours tweaking it to finally get it to fit properly. And then, it was too long in the torso. The markings on the collar don't match up well with those on the front bodice. I had some difficulty getting the V back to hang properly (it pulled sideways). Otherwise, an interesting and dramatic dress. Add seam tape to the bodice/skirt seam to keep it from stretching out of shape.
Sarah Scrignar - Recommended
The basic pattern is simple, even the bias elements are straight forward and simple IF you are an intermediate sewer. No need to be an advanced sewer, but the need to fit this pattern to a dress form is crucial. I would like to object about the comments that the bodice is too long; it is supposed to be. The style of the dress reflects the time period it was designed; the 1980's. All of that extra fabric is what is supposed to gather loosely at the waist. Not entirely flattering to those with small waists, but it allows the dress to slip over the head with no fastenings. The fit through the LOWER hip is what is crucial to keeping the dress where it should be. I found that if you add loose diagonal bust darts from the side seam and lower the back V-neckline an inch it makes the dress a bit more flattering at the waist line, yet still able to slip over the head. I also cut a belt using the optional neck sash pattern included. The belt is tied like a sash and follows the same casual grace of the dress line while allowing one to keep the whole lower waist/hip line smooth and places all the extra fabric bloused above the belt (people with larger tummies might like that option). This simple belt also lends a more 1930's air to the dress. A casually elegant and fun dress when finished, it looks exquisite in light fabrics with lots of movement such as silk, chiffon, etc. (although sewing those fabrics is another challenge in itself).
Crystal Herbert
I had the same problem with the torso fit. I took it up once but it still looks short and wide on me. I'm going to take it up again and shape it some in the waist. I intend to put in an invisible zipper in the side seam; otherwise, it won't go on over my head. I used a gold colored satin that drapes beautifully. It will be a great special occasion dress.
#238 - Le Smoking Jacket
Greta de Groat - Recommended
This pattern went together easily. The only problem I could find was a tendency for the sleeve cuffs to curl. It makes a fairly loose-fitting jacket (at least on my husband) . I did not do the optional quilting and I didn't put on the belt loops; hence the funky sash. I knew he'd tear belt loops.
Sue Toorans - Recommended
From cutting to final pressing the jacket took two (rather intense) days. It went together well. All the pieces and marks and notches line up; something I really like in a pattern. If you don't insist on making it more difficult than it needs to be, this is a fairly easy pattern. They even give directions on how to pad stitch for those of us who have avoided it, so far. I added a full lining and made the shape slimmer. I also flat lined the entire jacket because I was working with a silk with great hand and no body.
#239 - Blonde Bombshell
Sara Maene
I found that the rib cage circumference tended to run small for this pattern. Check your measurements before cutting. If you're either large-busted or small busted, you may want to test the bodice fit by making a muslin first. The halter top will drape differently depending on your bust size. It's very easy sewing. The end result is fun and flattering.
#241 - Fifties Fit & Flair
Anne F. Merritt - Recommended
This pattern was just plain fun. The project did not take a lot of time, and the result was very pleasing. It's a fitted dress with dolman sleeves and a full skirt. It zips up the back. The skirt has slash pockets in the front. The pattern also includes knitting directions for a stole and directions for a self belt. I used a medium weight cotton poly blend with a twill weave. I have to say it worked better than I expected. The medium weight material stands out from the body and as I was looking for a fifties full skirt effect it worked well with just a slip. There are three neckline choices, a v-neck, round jewel neckline, and a turtleneck. I chose the v-neck.
The pattern pieces are on a heavy, white tissue paper. The directions are clear and easy to follow, but read before you sew. The seam allowance used is 1/2 inch not 5/8 which will make a difference as this is a fitted garment from the bust to the waist. Alterations were easy. Finishing at the neckline is a bias facing. Basic sewing skills will be all you need for this pattern.
#252 - Beach Pyjamas
Ellie Farrell
It has some complicated parts in the top. I shortened the top and it was still too long in the torso.
#253 - Vintage Bathing Costume
Trystan L. Bass - Recommended
This pattern does not have the best instructions. They are not very clear in places and leave details out until the end. It's nothing that you can't figure out if you read everything three times before starting and three more times as you go along but, it's a real bother and not well suited to beginners. Also, this pattern seemed very unnecessarily fussy to me. There were lots of nitpicky finishing details around the jumper closure and the skirt waistband that took a lot of time but, weren't very noticeable in the end. Maybe a better seamstress could re-think those parts and streamline the work.
The results are very cute, especially if you add all the rickrack trim. The skirt is a lovely Alice-in-Wonderland style that could be used in other costumes. The jumper looks a little silly on me by itself; if I did it again, I'd make the top of the jumper into a separate middy blouse and skip the bloomers.
#255 - Swing Suit
Janet Croft - Highly Recommended
This is a wonderful jacket. It hangs beautifully and comfortably from the shoulders. I made the body from a gold and black brocade and the cuffs and lapels in black velveteen. Didn't make the skirt, but if you have a favorite straight or pegged skirt pattern it will look just as good. Easy to sew, though the cuffs can be a bit bulky to turn up properly. Use a fabric that will take the back pleat nicely. Looks best with a collarless shirt.
#257 - Twenties Day Dress (Out of Print)
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
A terrific pattern. Great for beginners. Can be made in one day. The instructions for cartridge pleating are very good; useful if you just want to learn how to do cartridge pleating. The skirt does not have to be pleated; it could be gently gathered. I made the pattern up twice. The second version is floor length, made of silver lame. Due to limitations in the amount of fabric I had to work with, the skirt was cut only slightly wider than the dropped waist and eased into the waist. The result was a 1930's evening dress. Sally is wearing the first dress in the photo on the left.
#261 - Paris Promenade Dress
Karen McWilliams - Highly Recommended
This was my first effort at Folkwear Patterns, and I very much liked the way the dress came together, although IMO it looks quite different from the illustration. I suspect this dress's appearance will vary significantly according to the fabric choice. It's not intuitively obvious how the pieces fit together, but if you follow the directions, it works. A couple of tips: First, be very careful in choosing the material. It has to have enough body not to sag under its own weight (most of the dress has two and often three layers of fabric, all of which hangs from the neckline/shoulders) but enough drape not to appear too bulky, as the dress measures approx. 60" around before belting. If I were to make it again, I'd go with a medium-weight silk, or perhaps a cotton batiste (good choice for less-experienced sewers). Second, be very careful handling the bias-cut pieces because if they stretch at all the dress won't lay correctly. I suggest stay-stitching the bias edges, although the directions don't mention this. Third, definitely hand- or glue-baste the overdress where it attaches near the neckline so it is nice and flat and won't shift when you machine-stitch it. One last note for those who loathe hand-sewing: because of the sack-like construction, the hem MUST be hand-sewn.
Sarah Gilbert - Not Recommended
This was my first time using Folkwear patterns and I was quite excited to get started as I have read and heard such good things about them. What a disappointment! I followed the measurements very carefully and ended up with way too much fabric - the dress was just HUGE on me. You'll have to scale the pattern down if you are petite. The directions were not overly clear and I was very unhappy with the finished product. I have been sewing for over 20 years and consider myself an advanced sewer. I would not recommend this pattern. Hopefully, my 'Model T Duster' coat goes much better.
#262 - Spectator Coat
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
This is a wonderful pattern. I made the stand-up collar style with the shaped hem. I made this as a winter coat and added both a lining and interlining. The pattern does not include instructions for lining or separate pattern pieces for lining. The coat goes together beautifully. It's comfortable and gorgeous and looks like it came right out of the Deco era.
#263 - Countryside Frock Coat
Leigh Ann Hildebrand - Not Recommended
I made the Men's view. Though I tend to really like Folkwear patterns, this is the only Folkwear I've ever been disappointed in. It sacrifices fit and cut for ease of construction (it's faced, not lined). It turned out more loose fitting than expected. It's a pain to adjust the fit once it's sewn because of the seams; I ended up tacking pleats into the back at the waistline to give it a better fit. The coat's skirt seems short and out of proportion. It's unlined and doesn't want to hang in a flattering way unless it's completely buttoned.
#264 - Monte Carlo Dress
Karen Tully - Recommended
This pattern is very straightforward. It was easy to make; however, the shoulder straps are a pain. I made the dress out of silk crepe. Because of the shape of the bodice (a wide shallow scoop), attaching the straps to the bodice, turning the fabric, and stitching was time-consuming and tricky. I ended up wrapping the bodice sections with a bit of thread which made the fabric narrow enough to fit the strap over. The front facing has darts; the bodice front does not have darts. I had to move the facing darts; they were too high for my torso. The skirt will surprise you if you don't thoroughly and carefully read all the directions BEFORE you buy your fabric. This pattern lends itself to using contrast fabrics. The description on the package even suggests layering. Here's the tricky bit: the pattern pieces are 2 rectangles. Each rectangle is 1/2 of the skirt. They don't overlap; they aren't layered. The pattern does not give different amounts of fabric needed for contrast top and bottom or for layers in the skirt. I made a layered skirt. I didn't buy enough fabric. I had to figure out the calculations for how much fabric I would need and go out and buy more.
Tara Malsberger - Recommended, but with one caveat.
Perhaps because I was overeager or a newer sewer, I didn't understand the instructions. The instructions for the straps were, to me, unclear until you fiddle with them 2 or 3 times. I made a muslin, but misunderstanding the instructions, I didn't include the straps, thinking they were just coverings to the strap part of the bodice to get the drapey effect. When I made the muslin I discovered that I had to re-cut the armholes, neckline, and lengthen the body by 3 inches. What a disaster! I made it work anyway, but it still wasn't quite right and the beautiful fabric I used was the last in town. Lesson learned: If you're going to the trouble of making a muslin, don't cut corners, make the whole dress!
#265 - Afternoon Tea Dress
Heidi Schultz - Not Recommended
While the pattern itself works up very easily and all the marking match up, the dress did not end up looking anything at all like the picture. I made the under-dress with the sweetheart tunic. The under-dress has a VERY pegged skirt shape and a walking slit up the back, which I did not like. I changed it to a straight skirt. That worked out just fine, but the little bodice it attaches to the dress came out too short. If you follow the illustration and place the sash just above your waist line, you will end up with quite a bit of bulk from the under-dress under the sash. I ended up taking the bodice off the skirt, and putting it onto a wide waistband to reduce the amount of fabric under the sash. I also took the darts out and gathered the bodice to fit, as this looked better over a corset. I think anyone with a small bust will need to make some pretty significant adjustments to the darts in the bodice, they are quite deep.
The over-tunic was simply a disaster. It turned out looking like a large t-shirt, and not like the illustration at all. I ended up having just enough fabric left to cut the bottom of the tunic off, make a new front to add length, and add a panel to the back for some width. I would highly recommend doing a muslin of the over-tunic, and cutting the thing out in the largest size. Unless the wearer is very petite, it requires a good deal of alteration to look anything like the picture.
Were I do this dress again, I would redraft the whole pattern. The end result turned out ok because I reworked it, not because of the pattern. The design I ended up with is very flattering.
Tara Strand - Recommended, with just a bit of caution.
I took this pattern on as a challenge to myself since I'm not the most experienced of seamstresses and I hadn't tried to sew a full outfit in ages, so I wanted to see if I could pull it off.
The underdress was easier to make than I expected, although I ended up working out a curved shape for the darting in the bodice so it would fit nicely without the points you usually end up with with that kind of darting. I also narrowed down the upper part of the skirt section so it didn't billow as oddly (especially since I chose not to make it on the bias). The bodice did end up being pretty easy to spill out of if you bend over far enough, but upright the overall silhouette of the dress was nice.
I also made the sweetheart tunic which was my first attempt at making anything on the bias, but the package came with a great info pamphlet on sewing on the bias and I found the pattern to be infinitely forgiving and to fit very nicely.
The belt and bow were also very simple to make for the look, but with me being 5'-0" the length of the bow was WAAAY more than necessary (even coming up several inches short of the recommended length), but I ended up wearing it at the back which was pretty and served as a nice train.
All put together the silhouette was beautiful and very period, and I got lots of compliments even before I told people I made it myself!
#266 - Greek Island Dress
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
This is a very good pattern with well-written instructions. I made three changes: I cut it on the bias (and in cutting slightly increased the flair in the center back of the lower skirt), I added two godets on each side of the skirt at the hem thereby adding more flair and I replaced the zipper with hooks and eyes. The dress was made out of a very light silk and will be worn to Deco era events. The goal was to emphasis the influence of the 1930s style in this dress. It was a tremendous success. The finished dress is beautiful and definitely evokes the 1930s.
#501 - Algerian Pants (Out of Print)
Victoria Meyn - Highly Recommended
Wonderful pants! I used $6.00 a yard fabric from a Sari shop in Berkeley; awesome green silk with gold embroidered roses. The instructions need to be read thoroughly as they don't particularly like mainstream sewers. The instructions show you how to do something in a new way. Fitting: The pants fit like a charm as you create the waist band size. This feature of tightness around the bottom of the leg is part of the design and keeps the pants taught at that point. The only thing to be very aware of is the circumference of the calve muscle on your leg. The pant does not have elastic at your calf; in fact if you make it according to the pattern you will be squashing your muscle. I have very average legs and my height is 5'6". I did add interfacing at the hem and it needed to be let out for ease. These pants are sooo much fun to dance and play in. Victoria is wearing the Algerian pants in the photo on the right.
#503 - Poiret Cocoon Coat (Out of Print)
Sally Norton - Highly Recommended
It's incredible to get such a beautiful coat from such a simple pattern. I changed the collar. I wanted to copy one of Paul Poiret's other coats. I took the collar pattern piece and made it wider and longer; then stuffed my fabric with batting. I also added loop braid around the entire coat and a line of 5 buttons instead of just 1 (specified in the pattern). Sally is wearing the coat in the photo on the right.Unfortunately, this wonderful pattern has been discontinued, but I've seen it on eBay. Pictured at right.
Janet Canning - Highly Recommended
Choose a lining and fashion fabric that are about the same weight. If there is too much difference, the lining tends to "balloon" out.
Loren Dearborn - Highly Recommended
The pattern is great; fast and simple. It does make up big. Wonderful for beginners.
Sheri Jurnecka - Recommended
It seems strange when you are cutting it out and sewing it. The coat appears to be huge, much too long and oddly shaped. When finished, it all comes together and looks great.
#504 - 1921 Afternoon Dress (Out of Print)
Janet Canning
A difficult pattern. You're working blind putting odd, large pieces together and turning the lower piece under to form the dress. There is no way to adjust the fit; it either works or it doesn't. It is attractive only on a tall, slender figure. Janet is wearing the dress in the photo on the right.
Sally Norton
The dress wasn't flattering to me. It did go together exactly as explained in the instructions. I think you need to be tall to wear this dress.
Margaret DeLap
This is simple in that it has few pieces. However, I had trouble with (1) turning in the neck facing -- the neckline is just a slit, and I couldn't get it to stay inside without doing some "embroidery"; and (2) sewing the hem -- you can't see what you're doing. It probably does look best on a tall person (I'm built like a peasant).
#505 - Claire McCardell Cloister Dress (Out of Print)
Ellie Farrell - Highly Recommended
Very simple. You must use 60" fabric. The instructions recommend stretch fabric, which is a good idea. I didn't use stretch fabric but, I think anyone making up a medium or large size would need the stretch because the dress pulls on over your head.
#507 Gallenga Gown (Out of Print)
Greta de Groat - Recommended
This pattern is quite large. I made it with a limp, burned-out velvet. It came out OK. If I were making it out of a stiffer fabric (similar to the illustration on the pattern cover) I think I'd baste it together first and see if it needs taking in. The neck keeps falling off my shouders. The sleeves were about 6 inches too long. The loops for the beads at the hip are really not necessary, as the dress is large enough that you don't need to undo them. You could just sew them together permanently. I shortened the dress and made it without the train but, added pointed godets at the hip to make an irregular hemline. You can see the extra beads I added at the side seams droop. I really like how it came out and it is very comfortable to wear.
#508 - 1915 Traveling Suit (Out of Print)
Loren Dearborn - Recommended for intermediates.
More time-consuming than difficult. I have heard other people say they had trouble fitting the arms into the jacket but, I didn't have any problems. I did have to work with the lining a bit to get it smooth. Loren is wearing the suit in the photo on the right.
Jessica Kiley - Recommended for those with patience.
In general, the pattern went together with no major problems; however, I did find it very difficult to adjust the jumper for my short torso. The jumper is made from, essentially, two giant front/back pieces. The top and skirt are all one piece. I just couldn't find an obvious or convenient place to shorten the jumper bodice and still keep it looking right. It did, finally, come out looking very good in the end.