The Great Pattern Review

The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900
by Nora Waugh

Philip Rayment - Highly Recommended

Philip Rayment has used this book for many of his garments. He gives the drawings a high rating for accuracy and workability. One of the major advantages of this book is its chronological arrangement. This feature allows you to look 10-20 years among the timeframe that interests you. Depending on the socio-economic status you wish to create, you can adjust your pattern according to fashion and personal preferences.

Coat and Breeches Diagram XXIII

Philip Rayment

I measured myself. From those measurements and looking at the drawings, I estimated the distances between seam junctures. Naturally, I created a muslin first (actually, I created several muslins before I was satisfied). I used the muslin to build two suits.

Coat Diagram XVII

Philip Rayment

I used this pattern to create a coat for a uniform of the 95th Rifles and used Diagram XXXI for the pantaloons.

Pantaloons Diagram XXXI

Philip Rayment

This pattern works pretty well, but you need a stretchy fabric. The pantaloons are difficult to iron. You'll notice the drawing doesn't indicate how to finish the leg opening. On one pair I just turned under the bottom and stitched it down. To be historically accurate, the raw edge should be bound and closed with a button. Pantaloons should have a nice slim fit for riding.

Coat and Waistcoat Diagram XXIX

Philip Rayment

I used the same measuring technique to create my muslins. I did not use the pattern piece for the collar of the coat. I created my own pattern based on other illustrations. I used the coat body for two coats. Philip is wearing one of his coats made from this pattern in the photo on the left.

Frock Coat Diagram XL

Philip Rayment

This is easier than you would imagine. The skirt of the coat swirls easily. You have a waist seam but, this is not too hard if you're careful. If you have a vest pattern that fits you well, it can be a guide for the fit of the body of your frock coat. Philip is wearing the coat in the photo to the right.