The Great Pattern Review
Alter Years
#PAY-009 - Easy Elizabethan Bodice: Back Laced
Elizabeth Merritt
The proportions on this pattern seem utterly wrong. Mostly it assumes a large bust for the waist/hip measurement; hence, even with some alteration, I still found the bust a little large. Altogether, the pattern does not take into account the amount of snugness needed for support, nor the spring space between the back laces. However, the cut of the bodice is very nice, very period-looking, and simple to sew. It works if you just make it smaller and alter the proportions. I would recommend this pattern to anyone who wants a basic picture of what their pattern pieces should look like and wants to go on from there.
#PAY-010 - Easy Peasant Shirt/Chemise
Melody Watts and Janet Valcho - Not Recommended
We found the yardage estimation to be inaccurate by about a yard . This sent us scurrying off to the fabric store for more fabric that was no longer available. This was 2 days before the Ren Faire. Needless to say, we had to pinch-hit with a different blouse.
#PAY-011 - Nobleman/Noblewoman's Shirt
Tracy Benton - Not Recommended
As seems to be the trend with the Alter Years patterns, the yardage required by the envelope was far too little to complete the pattern. Additionally, the sketch for the layout of the pattern pieces bore no relationship to reality; the pieces could not fit on 45" fabric as shown on the layout diagram. On top of that, several pieces were shown laid out cross-grain, when the pattern pieces themselves showed the grain line running lengthwise to the pattern. I would not recommend this pattern to anyone accustomed to following pattern directions. Those who just take the pieces and rely on their own experience will remain much more sane.
Melody Watts - Not Recommended
Despite having read the warning (above), I went ahead used this pattern. The other reviewer neglected to mention the fact that this pattern makes up into an impossibly HUGE shirt. Roomy just doesn't describe the fit. I followed the size chart for my bust (29-42") and ended up with a shirt 56" around, using 1/2" seam lines. The sleeve hole that runs from shoulder to armpit is 18" long; it reaches to my waist. This pattern is best used at Shirt length, as the Chemise length gives you little hem diameter and forces you to walk in choppy little steps. I added gores. Other problems: the calculation for the box-pleated neck ruffle is way off. Her formula leaves you short about 10" from what you actually need. My neck is 15". The instructions direct you to "use your neck size x 1-1/2,+ 1". Ex: if neck is 15", times it by 1 (15") and a half ( 7 1/2") + 1". The total is then 23". She has you using 1" box pleats with 3/8" reverses. It just didn't happen .I had to cut and piece a band I had already trimmed the edge of. This is a simple-looking shirt that ended up taking way too much of my life to correct.
#PAY-012 - Peasant Skirts
Donna Hearth - Highly Recommended
Very easy. I made it in four hours. I used gauze for hot weather fairs and belly dancing. It hangs beautifully.
#PAY-014 - Irish Dress & Underskirt
Loren Dearborn - Recommended
I only made the Irish dress, not the underskirt. This went together very well and fit me perfectly. Try on the bodice before attaching it to the skirt. Make sure you adjust the bodice to fit you very snugly; then you won't even need a corset. Good for beginners. Loren is wearing the bodice in the photo to the right.
Melody Watts and Janet Valcho
Using their estimation for fabric, we were 2 half panels short for the pleated skirt that attaches to the bodice. We double checked the yardage figures provided and found no error on our part. The instructions are 1-2 yards short...again. (We bought 1/4 of a yd MORE then the pattern recommended, so we were able to at least squeak by. ) The attached bodice skirt was not as full as planned because of this miscalculation.
Denisen Hartlove - Highly Recommended
This pattern is wonderful for beginners and experts alike. Printed on heavy paper, it's a simply-drawn pattern, comprising only a few pieces, and they go together easily (a welcome relief after working with piece-happy Vogue patterns and their ilk). The instructions are well-written, including options for pleating or gathering the skirt(s). Instructions for an underskirt are included along with explaining how to properly bone the bodice for bust support. This pattern is simple enough that it can be worked into a comfortable, easy-to-wear overdress for a Renaissance Faire as well as "played with" to turn it into the basis for a fabulous fantasy costume. The one fly in the ointment (and note that Alter Years is now aware of this glitch and is working on fixing it) is that the skirt cutting instructions are incorrect for the pleated skirt; either add an extra full panel or subtract one when cutting and remember to include this fact in your fabric allotment.
Joan Desmond - Not Recommended
I just bought my first Alter Years pattern, the Irish Dress and Underskirt. I can't believe I spent $17.00 for such a basic design. Just looking at it, I'm astounded that the bodice armhole line looks as if it was drafted by someone swimming in ale, it is so raggedy. I will have to redraw and make adjustments before I can cut the fabric. Give me Folkwear patterns anytime with their skillfully done research and carefully executed drafting.
#PAY-016 - Irish Kinsale Cloak
Teresa Liao
I am still undecided on whether or not to recommend this one. Although I was able to put the cloak together quickly and I am reasonably pleased with the results, it is not quite what I had hoped. The directions were a bit confusing at times and the illustrations did not always help to clarify. The directions do warn you to evenly attach the cloak to the collar, but even after several attempts at it, my collar still won't lay flat for long. However, the stubborn collar and the poor directions aside, the cloak is beautiful. I love both how full the body of the cloak is and how full the hood is. It is simply charming.
#PAY-021 -Easy Elizabethan Doublet: Side Closing
Asrah Little - Highly Recommended
The only problems I had were that the peplums on the doublet pattern were WAY too long. The doublet was made for a very small waisted man. I had to draft them down quite a bit.