The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild Presents:
Costume Academy 2016

Sunday, March 19th, 2017 - 9:15am-4:15pm
Language Studies International, 2015 Center St, Berkeley, CA 94704

Class Schedule

Check-In: 9:15 am - 10:00 am

Session 1: 10:00 am - 11:30 am

A) Basic Leatherworking CLASS FULL
Instructor: Greg Ruddy

An introduction to carving, tooling, and stamping leather to make a besutiful finished objet d'art or functional costume item. We will take a piece of unremarkable leather and transform it into a decorated finished piece. Students will learn how to use basic and specialty leatherworking tools, dyes, and finishers. Limited to 10 students.

Students may bring: An apron to cover clothes or wear grubby clothes and shoes as dyes and finishers may spill and can stain.

Kit fee is $10 payable to the instructor in class. The fee will cover leather, dyes and finishers. Instructor will provide a limited number of tools for sharing, but if you have access to leatherworking tools or stamps, it's recommended to bring them.

B) Welts Without Torture
Instructor: Liesl Buchbinder

Welt pockets and bound buttonholes. They are fabulous details that are intimidating for many costumers, mostly due to their permanence. In this class, we will explore different methods of creating welts, and make a sample using the method explained in Laughing Moon patterns. Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring: sewing machine, hand and sewing machine needles, thread, and thread snips.

Kit fee $2.00 payable to the instructor in class. Includes sample kit.

C) A Stitch in Time Saves Nine: Mending Techniques
Instructor: Monica Lenk

In previous generations, it was common knowledge that when clothing began to wear out, a little care and attention would go a long way towards prolonging its useful life. Although much of modern fashion is designed to be disposable, our handmade creations and beautiful vintage finds deserve just as much consideration. In this class, we will cover a variety of techniques that can be used to repair different sorts of holes, rips, and tears in a range of fabric types. Feel free to bring questions, or specific items from your mending pile that you’re not sure how to approach. Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring: a hand sewing kit with needles, black thread and fabric scissors.

Kit fee is $5 payable to the instructor in class. The kit will include samples of various fabric and flaw types for students to practice on in class.

D) Ruffles and Bustles and Pleats, Oh My! Use of Trims between 1870-1890
Instructor: Jen Lemus

Ever get overwhelmed by the sheer number of trim options on bustle era gowns? Struggle with what to put where? Did you know that there was a place on the gown where pleats were almost never lacking? This lecture will provide an overview of how to trim bustle era gowns in the most popular of period ways, along with sewing tips and tricks to speed your progress and calculate your yardage. Includes period tricks on saving fabric when making pleats, a demonstration of a pleater board, fork pleating and methods to make yards of ruffles easier without a gathering or ruffler foot.

Kit fee: The instructor will provide a handout. Donations in class are appreciated.

Lunch: 11:30 am - 1:00 pm

Session 2: 1:00 pm - 2:30 pm

A) Stamped Silk Velvet Millinery Leaves CLASS FULL
Instructor: Lynn McMasters

Make a branch of 3 stamped silk millinery leaves for decorating your hat. Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring: craft scissors, fabric scissors, wire cutters, and a rotary cutter. Pinking shears optional.

Kit fee is $20 payable to the instructor in class. The kit will include the silicone stamp, pattern, velvet, wonder-under, wire, florist tape, and backing fabric.

B) Simply Lovely Zippers
Instructor: Liesl Buchbinder

A well-installed zipper can be the perfect finishing touch for a costume. We will learn about the history of zippers and make a sample of a classic couture-style zipper installation. Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring: sewing machine, hand and sewing machine needles, thread, and thread snips.

Kit fee $2.00 payable to the instructor in class. Includes sample kit.

C) 17th Century Men's Scottish Attire
Instructor: Curtis Newbrough

Ever wanted to know how men put on their kilts? A brief introduction to 17th century Scottish men's attire. This lecture will go over the basics of everyday wear for Scottish gentleman with a focus on the Great kilts of this time period. We will also go over the proper folding techniques as well as some of the variants on how the great kilt could be worn based upon the needs of the wearer.

D) The Finishing Touch: Pleated Ribbon Trims CLASS FULL
Instructors: Aurie Bradley and Shelley Monson

Ever wondered how to make those wonderful pleated trims that you always see on period dresses? This class will show you how they are done. In class you will create a sample board of trims to take home, as well as receive a handout with complete how to instructions, illustrations and photos of period examples. The techniques you learn in class will enable you to make beautiful pleated ribbon trims suitable for trimming garments from the 18th Century to the 20th.

Limited to 15 students. Basic hand-sewing skills required.

Students must bring: Needles, thread (any color), sewing pins, scissors, small ruler, marking pen or pencil.

Kit fee is $5 payable to the instructor in class. The kit will include handout, board, and ribbon.

Session 3: 2:45 pm - 4:15 pm

A) Large Gathered Silk Velvet Rose CLASS FULL
Instructor: Lynn McMasters

This rose is ideal for millinery, or it makes a simply lovely Edwardian or 1920’s waistband decoration. If we have extra time we will make additional rose buds out of our scraps. Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring: craft scissors, fabric scissors, pins, hand-sewing needles, chalk marker, and rotary cutter.

Kit fee is $15 payable to the instructor in class. The kit will include the pattern, fabric, threads, and backing crinoline. If you have a particular color of silk velvet required, please bring your own fabric, and Lynn will adjust your kit fee accordingly.

B) You’ve Got to Stitch a Pocket (or Two)!
Instructor: Catherine Scholar

How do you carry your personal items in costume? There are always handbags and baskets of course, but sometimes you want your hands free, or you want your car keys and phone secure during a long day of re-enactment. You need a pocket! A what? Like in my jeans? Not quite! Pockets were separate from clothing, basically a bag (or two), worn around the waist on a ribbon or tape, and accessed through slits in the skirt. They were worn from the late 17th century through most of the 19th, and are convenient under any gown with a full skirt (of any period; we won’t tell). We will make a simple pocket (or two, they were often worn in pairs). If you use a sewing machine you will probably finish your pocket during the class! For a look at many wonderful pockets, please visit: https://www.pinterest.com/sistersuzi/pockets/

Limited to 12 students.

Students must bring:

  • ½ yard fabric per pocket (1 yard for two pockets). Most pockets are cotton or linen, quilting cotton or heavier. Fabric can be plain, print, embroidered, matelassé, or quilted.
  • 1 yard binding per pocket (wide double fold bias tape or 1” wide twill tape or ribbon; bias is easier to apply, twill tape or ribbon are more period correct but require hand sewing)
  • 2 yards 1” wide grosgrain or petersham ribbon or twill tape for around the waist.
  • Thread to match fabric and binding.
  • Sewing machine (plus pedal and power cord!) is optional but highly recommended.
  • Hand-sewing kit if not using a machine (needles, thread snips, thimble, beeswax).
  • Scissors for fabric, thread, and paper.
  • Pins, ruler or other measuring device, bodkin or large safety pin, pencil or marking tool that shows on your fabric.

Kit fee is $2, payable to the instructor in class. The kit will include a pattern and a handout.

C) Perfect Pattern Matching (lecture and demo)
Instructor: Cynthia Howell

Baffled by brocades or perplexed by plaids? Are you looking to take your patterned project to the next level? Plaids, stripes, and brocades can be go from so-so to fabulous with a little care and attention to detail. Cynthia will demonstrate how to cut pieces to match, and then pin and stitch to perfection. If time allows she will be happy to consult on your special project.

Students must bring: a means of taking notes and their curiosity.

D) Patterns to Fantasy: Adjusting Patterns for Use in Cosplay (lecture and demo)
Instructor: Erik Anderson

If you’ve ever wanted to dress up as your favorite superhero, you might have noticed that superhero patterns are pretty thin on the ground, and if you do find one, it’s likely not up to snuff for your artistic vision. Erik will walk you through the process of starting with a straightforward, “everyday” pattern, and take it from “Secret Identity” to “Superhero”.

This class will go over pattern choice and adaptation from Fantasy and Science Fiction, including use of alternate materials such as Worbla and EVA foam to achieve a look. We will lightly cover distressing and 3-dimensional texturing techniques. We will take several images from popular media today and break them down into pattern-able pieces, parts and accessories.

Students must bring: a means of taking notes.

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